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Steamboat Rock, Hardin County.
State of Joma 1919
IOWA PARKS
Conservation of Iowa Historic, Scenic and Scientific Areas.
Also a Description of Numerous Areas Suitable for Public State Parks, with Reasons for Their Preservation.
Report of the STATE BOARD OF CONSERVATION.
Published by THE STATE OF IOWA Des Moines
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THE IOWA STATE BOARD OF CONSERVATION.
L. H. Pammel, Ames,
J. F. Ford, Fort Dodge, Joseph Kelso, Bellevue,
E. R. Harlan, Des Moines.
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
SCENERY Group County after page Allamakee........ Fel Seve EAT tere otckc cece yese aiela eis) sis, ciseleya)aye;s 6) Gyelel tel siisjere 224 fe Islands! in) MISSISSIPDI Rivers <2 es +c let ele ot- ele ele)e 5! 192 ss Mississippi River near Lansing.................--. 192 se Mississippi River and Steamboat................. 192 +s Watenvillesearksan Ge Streaills .icieicie -levsislsie clei) eieis) 1-1 192 “4 Wiener pilbley hate eyaol Isthbits sonoosomoobabodoomD 00 128 e: VVhite! eines) And Wires eicrsicislsielsielels e vieteieleis!etetetete ta 224 ae SYCO 1 OMWaL EQUV OI ye yore oie. evev iets chavs) orei’n, aifotny st sifel sieve talaviebatetolclst ie 160 BOONE ais ssc creus wien Hntrancento: une Wied Les anise -velessrebelniercteiei stab ierstelonoiars 192 IBTEM Clee secierseirc WoW OL ys eT Kesiae hic vieiere lal sve tals) = aloucietsicusispseons) cpeve ehetehoisrs 64 BUENA NVASta sn... Witte SioUxiver ace SIOUX aADICS 4.1/4) siesta ta sl 96 Calhoun ...4. 2s... INOrtheDs win slaKGey miscrcrevhetel isto susie) cr ersvalemereteyar nee revencte 192 Cerro) Gordo...... Clear awaken SWOT eistocieror ste xc ome estore at avetsiay su ohorseeons 64 GQlaVeocc. ohieceeeths MittleNSiOUx Liver iacy LeLeLSOMs sryetd ere cisicleeteleraeteeac 192 LOEW A ifoy 0 creme ermere oe Balanced) Rock Bixbys Parks .icciseic =o ‘ieleise eli 160 FS ParadisouValley, Bix Dy, seat eon creteieitcve cieleeielei- ata 224 Mela wares....3:5 50 CGragsnin) DWevilissbackbpOnen Pb atkearepepe ye ltelstaiyavete alee ie 192 i Devail’s Backbone we arbres clevere retrieval cle eestets eevee fete 128 Dickinsone. 5.2. 2< «: Sunseteonmsluaker OKODO} eee cocrersmieieierele cs siateietehe ere eis 128 Dubuquesae ce aass Wimestone Lowers, Cathsh Creeks <j: «elects » 64 NOK (6 Peat od, 6 toa Big Boulder in southeast part of County.......... 96 IskVeulito laos ooooar eittler Wall Laake. soc sis:c/esecs: encrars © © sivtove oi cysrneuwterete 192 Elardin= 2... oeerecee Lowa River Gorge, Lowa) Mallisé jac q cwcieieiciielsiero cic <ie 64 oe Steamboat ROCK Gieteters siete seieieloier ei erocene othe Frontispiece JACKSON 4 2 o.2s.s05.08 Moorehead Caves near Maquoketa............... 224 < Natural Bridge near Maquoketa.................. 96 ed So) Donatus (hete des) MOLES). a cicrerele cieieie crcie) eter oleic 96 lipbeb ols Boao RO ree Palisades ty CCGA EUVET «tis cieiswe chore ciepe tieyere) sicleicie chs.c1e'6 96 ce Palisades, Cedar River and Limestone Cliffs.... 160 WUOUWISS ees ee sce. WML, CTO Z, SIGS aerogenes ceiavehstevevellese evap sevtveheresecovers.e scalars 160 MIG VO: 5, oi acste sna tuere ee SiGUuxs Ouartzite) and Vasper POO sos. oc. css = a 128 MEHR IBS soem aae Backbone DuUnmnelieie: cic steve seteiers a e.s0e ces eietersieie s a.0n088 96 ° Wooded scene at Devil’s Backbone............... 192 MAN ASIC .51..4,620% « ‘The Biuiis-on, Des) Moines RIVET... os «cts « cieie 00 00s 64 Marion... 24... s Read PROG lomo Neca ote canes ee 192 % Ruckman’s Arnual Soap Making... .......cs0.0.5: 64 ie es Capine TIXteriO“r, Oleic 6 6.5 e 8 sis six ws 224 é cee MUTE OLY ONO lee terenmenenane 6 0, o> «,ccsie: « sacliore = 64
VTA Se accielegetn oo oles Wie bOnsies (Ura sCONe:. ..... vic mteedeleters s sjs\es 000s dlaw 64
vi PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Group County after page MOnONa sc. oe cc ores « Loess TopOsraph yin csrccs skye cs settee reer ote 224 rh Loess Bluffs from Wooded Side ................ 224 Museatines.../.... Wild Cat: Den; Whitey Pinestate ms cies 128 OSCCOlE HE eifecs cece Ochéeyedan: ‘Mounds So). eisetese a clete sins clean avai erctoe eiaes 192 PAlOPAILGs ses. oar Silver Lake, DamiandtOutlets... oe eee 224 Pottawattamie.:..Loess Bluffs near Crescentys...... cee eee ee eee 128 Wel lence oagque Farmington: Park miliesecccanc csc 160 ss ss Keosauqua, Park, Des MMoimes River... -2 sciences 160 < iy s st AS COMER ANN acide ois: 0.0.0.0 a oe 128 WiapellOiaa. casi Monkey Mountain, Projecting Stone at............ 224 re a as Wall of Rock near... .-.--enee 128 IWIGDStOLr che = alerecicke Boneyard) olor sas relic sie cobore ores foie 0 ere 6 ee 192 Winneshiek....... Ice: Cavieumear Decoralisis., breve si eyeiycie te teves > sucess 96 se Grand View Upper Iowa River, Decorah.......... 96 PLANTS AMNOMONE]T A 2 55 ee Seay Se tretaa Reese oc etc he Pr re ee 128 Beard. Tonge’. trateatiae eee eee ee Siete ee Osha ores ache ee 128 - Botrydrium of the Woods......... Oi ages Se Gee Rares ohete Got 6 Oe 64 Canerlain' | VOW arr pte ee ett pee iste eters octane tae jaro» eae Closed: "Gentian ccecenieeiereee Ete uc tlstae nverete, aiajev ers tel of clieva (sae lee eee 160 Fringed! Gentian des cise sree ee ere ae ee ele are Ree eee 160 ESOP YT UMN | ih! shes ehatotets talerstea anole lehal eae eee rae eee SUT te ore aI eee 160 Lady-slipper: chew eee Ok os hans oe ee Oe a eens aa eee 96 Mareinal WB err 72 er nt fos ee oi in ee ee ee ons See eee ae eee anne 224 INIMOD ARIE 3.x ate chettatcte tata teteeise okaa area ae Bhs eeta ee aCe Ee Te ane eee 160 OStrich; ernst Rees ee ee eee SAIC THEIL RA acs Cc 224 Pasque:“HlOWwerc7 nee keh bic ee oe ee eee RUT ec 192 Prairie Cloverictihtscueics eee oe ee eC On ee eee 160 Purple Corn: Flowers 252 teh amie breton hehe comers ee oe 192 Reindeer: Lichenter oss. shee See ae ere eee eee EROS, of 2. nee 192 Shooting: ‘Starecrrciew desler eee ee rei ee oe ee 224 Walking’ Leaf Merntnno. lo eees cee heel ee nee eel eee 128 Wald: Towa’ Crabienco 55 cecde co leodaa wets © oe ea ein ates ele 128 © Wild Plants, :-Groupsofe ae. ae ee ere ores aioe eee 224
Wild Rice and: Arrowhead. 3.250 Se ioe ete es eee ee eee 224
AMBASSADOR BRYCE ON CONSERVATION
Ambassador James Bryce, probably the most helpful critic of American institutions and affairs who has visited the United States said:
‘The world seems likely to last a long, long time, and we ought to make provision for the future.
“The population of the world goes on constantly increasing and nowhere increasing so fast as in America. (North.)
“A taste for natural beauty is increasing, and as we hope, will d go on increasing.
“The places of scenic beauty do not increase, but, on the con- trary are in danger of being reduced in number and diminished in quantity, and the danger is always increasing with the accumu- lation of wealth, owing to the desire of private persons to appro- priate these places. There is no better service we can render to the masses of the people than to set about and preserve for them wide spaces of fine scenery for their delight.
“From these propositions I draw the conclusion that it is neces- sary to save what we have got, and to extend the policy which you have wisely adopted, by acquiring and preserving still further areas for the perpetual enjoyment of the people.”—Annals of Iowa. Vol. XI. No. 2-3-p. 112.
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IOWA STATE PARKS
Brief Description of Areas in lowa Which Have Been Ac- quired or Are in Course of Acquisition for
Public State Parks.
BONEYARD HOLLOW AND WOODMAN’S HOLLOW, WEBSTER COUNTY.
About ten miles southeast of Fort Dodge on the west bank of the Des Moines river; wild and beautiful scenery; rare plants and forestry; adapted to summer and winter sports; interesting historic associations and unusual pre-historic works and discoveries. Four hundred and fifty- seven acres purchased for thirty-eight thousand, five hundred dollars, toward which the local citizens paid ten thousand dollars in cash and pro- vided, cost free to the state, two appropriate roadways.
THE DEVIL’S BACKBONE, DELAWARE COUNTY.
Twelve miles northwest of Manchester, four miles northeast from La- mont, four miles southeast of Strawberry Point; good roads. Pur- chased almost entirely from funds derived from half the hunting license proceeds, under Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assem- bly, therefore by the State Board of Conservation characterized as ‘‘The Gift of the Iowa Sportsmen to the People of the State.” First public state park acquired; most wild and wonderful scenic area in interior Iowa; great bend of Maquoketa river; immense spring is a constant supply for fine trout brook; Maquoketa river to and including an ancient mill em- braced; rare plants and forestry including best typical growth of native white pines; grotesque weathering of ancient limestone; unusual and rare glacial and erosive effects displayed; ideal camping place when facilities are provided. All lands purchased; total area, 1,400 acres.
NEAR FARMINGTON, VAN BUREN COUNTY.
One-half mile south of Farmington near Des Moines river, and state roads, unique geology; scenic gem; original timber undisturbed; natural lake and marsh of forty acres proposed to be improved so as to cover sixty acres; perfect for stocking with bullheads and other fish; rare field of lotus or chinquapin; throngs of the cardinal and other birds winter and summer; muskrat and other fur bearers numerous. One hun- dred acres purchased by local citizens for seventy-five hundred dollars and presented cost free to the state which has engaged to purchase two
24 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
additional acres, condemn or acquire roadways and improve the same and otherwise render the area enjoyable.
NEAR KEOSAUQUA, VAN BUREN COUNTY.
Extends from the town along the south bank of the Des Moines river at the toe of the horseshoe bend some two miles up stream, thence south- ward from the stream to include some 1,400 acres. Natural wild life sanctuary and set apart to the unmodified and undisturbed use of t natural species of wild animal and plant life; rough, wooded, brushy, the high hills affording rarest of vistas up, down and across stream and crowned with prehistoric mounds; the ruffed grouse observed in summer 1919, with quail most abundant; winter resort and summer breeding place of the cardinal; numerous dens of fox, skunk, mink, raccoon, op- posum and groundhog; for a mile in all directions of the state lands, landowners voluntarily engage to assist the state in its protecting wild life, both on their lands and the lands of the state so that there shall be a protected undisturbed breeding place of approximately 5,000 acres; “Ely’s Ford,” a historic river crossing of pre-railroad days, famous then and ever since as a camping site for hunting, fishing, bathing and for winter sports. Acquired by purchase at an average of fifty dollars per acre to which local citizens contributed in cash something over seventy- six hundred dollars.
LEPLEY PARK, HARDIN COUNTY.
Three miles in a northerly direction from Union. Nine acres presented cost free to the people of Iowa by Mr. Irvin Lepley; the state to purchase some additional twenty acres. On the tract presented and that to be acquired are magnificent oak, elm, walnut, basswood and nearly every other native species of timber, wild flowers, woods, river, and important highways near make of this place an ideal gift to be dedicated to the perpetual use to which it has been. devoted from the earliest civilized times, namely, the enjoyment of the great outdoors. The board feels that in withholding from mercenary disposition this area and its transfer to the state in the way and for the purposes stated, warrants the board in commending Mr. Lepley to the gratitude of the people of the state.
NEAR OAKLAND, POTTAWATTAMIE COUNTY.
The Oakland Chautauqua Association donates, cost free to the state of Iowa, its fifteen acres of ground of a high pecuniary value and still higher esthetic value as the first roadside park in Iowa, upon the condi- tion that the state acquire a small additional area of ground completing and perfecting the foundation of an ideal roadside park. The additional ground being held at an exorbitant price, is yet to be condemned. The committee commends to citizens in other parts of Iowa the spirit of the Oakland Chautauqua Association as of the most Braces unselfish and farseeing character. :
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA xi
NEAR OAKLAND MILLS, HENRY COUNTY.
Four miles southwest of Mt. Pleasant on Skunk river, accessible from state roads, resorted to from remotest civilized and even during Indian times, for fishing and sugar making; rare plants and forestry; good boating and bathing; beautiful scenery; interesting history. acres in extent, a part of the ground and four thousand dollars donated, the state purchasing acres. Additional areas on margins of streams should be donated to the state, giving it complete, undisputed control.
ROOSEVELT PARK, FLOYD COUNTY.
Three miles in a northerly direction from Greene and four miles in a southeasterly direction from Marble Rock on the banks of the Shell Rock river. C. M. Mather donates cost free to the people of the state, some fifteen acres of ground together with an appropriate roadway thereto, providing the state acquire some additional ground, denominate this “Roosevelt Park,” and furthermore, that in the use of this area certain rules differential to Sundays be established and enforced. A fine growth of woods and flowers; resort of every species of bird native and migratory in that region; picturesque bluffs and ravines; a dam in the river at Greene affords fine boating and fishing; for years much resorted to for fishing and to some extent for camping. The State Board of Conservation regards the donation of Mr. Mather as a distinctly public-spirited aat and beneficial to the people of the state beyond present valuation. It individ- ually and positively expressed to Mr. Mather, and here records that ex- pression, that the reasonable rules recognizing and differentiating Sunday as the one day on which pastimes and performances of all sorts shall be in harmony with the mental attitude of devout people is a wholesome and welcome condition precedent to public acceptance of this gift.
WILD CAT DEN, MUSCATINE COUNTY.
Hight miles northeast of Muscatine near good roads. Misses Emma C. and Clara L. Brandt, nature loving sisters, present, cost free, sixty acres of the heart of one of the richest floral regions in the state. Pic- turesque in every way and the resort for years of classes in botany and forestry from the Chicago University and other institutions of learning; fishing, boating and bathing available especially if the area embrace one of the few remaining water power mills on the smaller stream. The state and local citizens engage to acquire the remainder of 300 acres along Pine creek to its confluence with the Mississippi river.
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PROPOSED IOWA STATE PARKS
Areas in Iowa Suggested by Responsible Citizens as Suitable For Public Park Purposes and So Regarded by the Board of Conservation, From Which Selections Will Be Made, Not Yet Acquired For the Want of Ap-
propriate Conditions Found or Created.
FIRST DISTRICT.
Des Moines Co., Starr’s Cave—Cave and glen near Burlington. Jefferson Co., Cedar Creek—Woods south of Fairfield.
Lee Co., Keokuk—Bluffs near Mississippi river.
Lee Co., Murray‘s Landing—Camp ground on Skunk river. Louisa Co., Myerholz Lake—Near Wapello.
Louisa Co., Odessa Lake—EHast of Wapello.
Louisa Co., Toolsboro—Indian mounds, mouth Iowa river.
SECOND DISTRICT.
Jackson Co., Morehead Caves—Northwest of Maquoketa.
Jackson Co., Tete des Morts—Historic, picturesque, near Bellevue. Muscatine Co., Chaney Lake—Near Bayfield and Cedar river. Muscatine Co., Park Place Addition—Suburbs of Muscatine.
:
THIRD DISTRICT.
Black Hawk Co., Cedar Heights—Near Cedar Falls on Cedar river. Black Hawk Co., Island—Above Cedar Falls.
Bremer Co., Shell Rock—Southwest of Waverly.
Bremer Co., Waverly Park—In suburbs of Waverly.
Dubuque Co., Catfish Creek—Two miles from Dubuque. Dubuque Co., Durango Road—North of Dubuque.
Hardin Co., Alden, Iowa Falls—Along Iowa river.
Hardin Co., Steamboat Rock—Sceniec, scientific, on Iowa river. Wright Co., Cornelia Lake—Six miles northeast of Clarion. Wright Co., Elm Lake—Six miles north of Clarion.
Wright Co., Twin Sisters’ Lake—West of Belmond.
Wright Co., Wall Lake—Eleven miles southeast of Clarion.
FOURTH DISTRICT.
Allamakee Co., The Fish Farm—Indian mounds, near Lansing. Allamakee Co., Waterville—Scenic and scientific.
xiv PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Allamakee Co., Yellow River—Scenic and scientific.
Cerro Gordo Co., Clear Lake—Land bordering the lake.
Cerro Gordo Co., Hackberry Grove—Fossil beds, near Portland.
Chickasaw Co., Nashua Park—Near Nashua, woods.
Chickasaw Co., Nashua Lake—Near Nashua on Cedar river.
Clayton Co., Bixby Park—Wooded and scenic, southwest part of Clay- ton county. ,
Fayette Co., Arlington—Scenic, near Arlington.
Fayette Co., Dutton’s Cave—Scenic, wooded, six miles from West - Union.
Fayette Co., Falling Springs—Scenic, four miles northwest of West Union.
Fayette Co., Rocky Dell—Scenic, four miles northwest of West Union.
Floyd Co., Big Boulder—Biggest boulder in west, near Nashua.
Floyd Co., Charles City Park—Suburbs Charles City, Cedar river.
Howard Co., Lime Springs—Wooded, on Upper Iowa river.
Mitchell Co., Spring Park—Wooded, near Osage.
Winneshiek Co., Blft. Balsam Grove—Rare woods, near Bluffton.
Winneshiek Co:, Ice Cave—Near Decorah, famous scenic, scientific.
Winneshiek Co., Meader Farm—Woods near Hesper.
Worth Co., Silver Lake—Ten miles west of Northwood.
FIFTH DISTRICT.
Cedar Co., Cedar Valley—Hight miles southwest Tipton on Cedar river. Cedar Co., Rochester—Seven miles south Tipton on Cedar river.
Jones Co., Monticello—Ten miles east Monticello, pictured rocks. Jones Co., Oxford Junction—Picnic grounds on Wapsie river.
Linn Co., Palisades—On Cedar river, ten miles southeast Cedar Rapids. Tama Co., Tama—Partly on Indian reservation near Tama.
SIXTH DISTRICT. ‘
Mahaska Co., The Bluffs—Thirteen miles southwest Oskaloosa on Des Moines river.
Mahaska Co., Eveland Park—Wooded, southwest of Oskaloosa.
Wapello Co., Chilton Farm—Near Eddyville, Indian mounds.
Wapello Co., Eddyville—Woods near Eddyville.
Wapello Co., Eldon—Suburbs of Eldon along river.
Wapello Co., Monkey Mountain—Near Ottumwa, on Des Moines river, scenic, ete.
SEVENTH DISTRICT.
Dallas Co., Farlow Ford—On Coon river, north of Adel.
Dallas Co., Perry—Woods near Perry.
Dallas Co., Van Meter—One mile northeast of Van Meter, woods.
Madison Co., Devil’s Backbone—Scenic, scientific, six miles southwest Winterset.
Marion Co., Red Rock—Historic, scientific, scenic, six miles northeast Knoxville.
Warren Co., Carliske—On North river, near Carlisle, wooded.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA XV
Warren Co., Indianola—One mile west of Somerset,.on Middle river. Warren Co., Middle River—Mouth Middle river, historic, wooded.
EIGHTH DISTRICT.
Lucas Co., Chariton—Five miles southeast Chariton on Chariton river.
NINTH DISTRICT.
Harrison Co., Missouri Valley—Woods, scientific, scenic.
Harrison Co., Pisgah—Four miles west Pisgah, on Little Sioux river.
Mills Co., Buckingham Lake—Southwest corner county.
Pottawattamie Co., Council Bluffs—Northwest of city, bluffs and ra- vines.
Pottawattamie Co., Manawa Lake—Near Council Bluffs.
Shelby Co., Grove Township—Rare woods, northwest part of county.
TENTH DISTRICT.
Boone Co., Ledges—Scenic, scientific, on Des Moines river, south of Boone. e
Calhoun Co., Twin Lakes—Six miles north Rockwell City.
Emmet Co., Estherville—Near town, fine woods, on Des Moines river.
Emmet Co., High Lake—Three miles east Wallingford.
Emmet Co., Iowa Lake—Northeast corner of county.
Emmet Co., Swan Lake—Ten miles southeast Estherville, walnut grove.
Emmet Co., Tuttle Lake—On north line of county.
Hamilton Co., Little Wall Lake—Three miles south of Jewell.
Hancock Co., Crystal Lake—In northeast part of county.
Hancock Co., Hagle Lake—Timbered banks, four miles east of Britt.
Hancock Co., Pilot Knob—Four miles southeast of Forest City, scenic.
Hancock Co., Twin Lakes—In southern. part of county.
Palo Alto Co., Medium Lake—Suburbs of Emmetsburg.
Pocahontas Co., Sunk Grove Lake—Four miles northwest of Fonda.
Winnebago Co., Duck Lake—In northern part of county.
Winnebago Co., Rice Lake—On eastern edge of county.
ELEVENTH DISTRICT.
Buena Vista Co., Pickerel Lake—In northeastern corner of county.
Buena Vista Co., Storm Lake—Land on shore near town of Storm Lake.
Cherokee Co., Cherokee—In northwestern suburbs of Cherokee.
Cherokee Co., Pilot Rock—Four miles south Cherokee, large boulder.
Clay Co., Peterson—Scenic, wooded, on Little Sioux river.
Dickinson Co., Okoboji Lake—Adjacent shore.
Dickinson Co., Spirit Lake—Adjacent shore.
Lyon Co., Gitchie Manito—Scientific, granite, northwest corner of county. ;
Monona Co., Blue Lake—Four miles west of Onawa.
Osceola Co., Ocheyedan Mound—Near Ocheyedan.
Plymouth Co., River Sioux Park—Near Westfield, on Big Sioux river.
Sac Co., Lake View—Shore of Wall Lake.
Woodbury Co., Stone Park—Suburbs of Sioux City.
xvi PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
SUPPLEMENTAL MEMORANDA.
Publication difficulties for which extraordinary conditions incident to the war are responsible, prevented the issuance of the first report of the Board of Conservation until so long a time after the materials were prepared, that it may now seem rather more historical than immediately practical in its character.
The time prior to August, 1919, was mainly used in the preliminary study and investigation necessary in the beginning of all departures in public affairs. The time after that date is therefore fuller of things ac- complished. It is of these things begun or done the commission feels something should be said at least in brief, pending the more elaborate publication of matter relating thereto that may be further and indefinitely delayed on account of conditions incident to the war, and the foregoing brief summary has been prepared to meet this need.
There are a number of areas not falling into the two classes here set forth, such as Fort Atkinson, a purely historical areas proposed McGregor National Park of too great an extent for a state project, and certain lake bed areas too expensive for acquisition from present funds.
All these areas and others of like character are in contemplation by the board for acquisition through special appropriations or co-operation with other persons or the general government.
DEDICATION OF PARK AREAS.
The Board of Conservation contemplates a series of programs dedicat- ing the areas that have been or may be acquired; the coming summer. Addresses of eminent men in and out of Iowa at the respective areas may be expected to compose the complete account of historic, scientific, scenic and recreational interests they respectively possess as public state parks. There will be revealed the detailed account of the amount of lands re- ceived and monies paid to individuals, the amount of lands donated and all conditions going therewith and the amounts of money donated by local persons and organizations toward assisting the state in acquiring the lands. The series of dedications may be expected to produce and make generally known the rule and practice for the use of the areas. They will lay down the state policy for the further acquisition and ad- ministration of public state parks.
The Board of Conservation has been constantly surprised and inspired by the apparent universal and helpful interest of the substantial citizens of each community in which it has made effort to carry forward the policy of establishing public state parks. Names of these men and women are in our files and will remain forever in our archives to their credit. They are omitted here merely on considerations of economy of time and money.
EDGAR R. HARLAN, Secretary. Des Moines, Iowa, April 1, 1920.
IOWA PARKS
Introduction
In its seventy years existence as a State, lowa has swept from a scattered settlement to a thickly populated farm-land, dotted with towns and cities. It received from the United States Gov- ernment certain of the lands as a gratuity and the rest of the lands have been received by the individual citizens, at a cost of a dollar and a quarter per acre. The Indians had parted with them at a return to themselves of about ten cents per acre.
The state was settled up, its roads laid out, its cities planned upon ox-cart conveniences and policies. The roads, therefore, were treated as subordinate to the claims and farms, and were only left where they were received from the Indian upon the natural ground-levels, until settlement reached them from the eastward, then they were torn from their ancient courses and bent around the corners of “forties” and “quarters,” regardless of hills that would never grow less and water-ways that would never be filled and grades that would never be fixed. The celerity of passage was sub- ordinated to that of production.
At such a time the reasonable day’s journey for a man in a con- veyance of any sort was twenty miles. His journeyings were limited to necessity and to business. Jlowa territory in 1840 embraced our present state and most of Minnesota and North and South Dakota, and contained 24,355 men, and 18,757 women.
In 1915, the numbers had increased to 1,212,932 men and 1,145,134 - women. Roads and vehicles now easily admit of journeying a hun- dred miles a day. Culture and habit as well as business and health urge the individual frequently to leave off routine and engage in pastime and out-door games. The impulse to respond increases and will probably continue increasing so long as men shall work and play.
But in 1919 there were not ten acres of public woods, water- landings or open prairies, in the state, unless in cities. Not a game could be played, a shot fired, a race run, a fly cast or a lunch spread, unless in cities or on dusty highways unless the enjoyment was a trespass or. was through the consent of private owners. In 1919 the acre which the Indian sold for ten cents and a pioneer bought for $1.25, and the tax-sale purchaser secured for delinquent taxes has.
2 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
become the $300.00 range of registered cattle, sheep or hogs and in turn the field of wheat, oats, corn or hay of such value that the an- cient paths of men now cost money. In their righteous ire farmers have destroyed groves of hickory, sold their walnut trees and cleared plum thickets to rid themselves of trespassers. Road sides, water- ways, fields, and groves today bear literally thousands of “No Tres- passing” signs, and still the principle born in men and women to run and leap in youth, to stroll and race in full growth and to hunt and fish as life is passing, has never changed. In their refinements, these tendencies become the spur to every soul who ;
“Finds tongues in the trees, Books in the running brooks, | - Sermons in stones And good in everything. I would not change it.”
And so the lands that now possess agricultural value mingled with historical, scientific, scenic or recreational character are under con- sideration for re-acquisition by the state, and return, where possible, to their pristine condition and public use. The Creator foresaw and provided that the lands suited to agricultural and industrial purposes were generally of the highest pecuniary value and that those for use by the scholar, artist, hunter and fisherman are as nearly worthless as He could allot to Iowa. So the Commission, in harmony with what it feels is an almost divine opportunity and with what it knows to be the certain and reasonable conflict of natural human interests in the uses of lands, has entered upon the effort without interference with production of Iowa lands, to increase their scope and restore _their uses for science, art and recreation.
Results so far attained are to be found in the minutes, papers and documents published herewith as the First Report of the lowa Board of Conservation.
EDGAR RR. BAREAN:
Secretary.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 3
REPORT OF THE CONSERVATION COMMISSION
Hon. W. L. Harding, Governor, and Members of the Executive Council:
Gentlemen :—In compliance with your request for a report of the investigation and researches of the Board of Conservation of the State of Iowa, we have the honor to submit the following report of our findings for your consideration.
The Board met pursuant to your notice and call, at Des Moines, Iowa, on December 27, 1918. The organization was perfected by electing Dr. L. H. Pammel, of the Iowa State College of Agricul- ture and Mechanic Arts, President, and Edgar R. Harlan, Cura- tor of the Historical Department of Iowa, Secretary. The Board immediately proceeded to make the investigation contemplated in Section 9, Chapter 236, Laws of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly. It would seem impossible that an investigation within the time intervening between December 27, 1918, and the present date, would be extensive or comprehensive enough to be of any great value to the executive_council. We, therefore, do not wish to convey the impression that the report which is submitted by the board covers only the information secured . from the personal visits and researches made during that period. On the contrary, it represents the compilation of all the informa- tion which the board was able to secure from a diligent search and study of the many papers and reports previously made by students of natural history, archaeology, geology and forest re- serves, as well as the information obtained in a few of the many places of scenic, historical, scientific and recreational interest in which our state abounds.
We have had access to the reports of such students of conser- vation and natural history as Dr. T. H. Macbride and the hosts he has inspired, as well as contributions from many other good people of our state, who have rendered us valuable assistance in our work, to all of whom we have given credit for their efforts in making our report as complete as possible in the limited space of time elapsed since the organization of the board.
Our examination of the many proposed park sites and reserves has impressed us with the belief that the time has arrived for the great State of Iowa to take a decisive stand to protect and conserve for future generations some of the many beauty spots
4 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
of the state, as well as preserve in its original form a portion, at least, of what is left that indicates the original natural condition of our prairies, forests and waters with their wealth of varied plant life as well as wild animal and bird life native to them, before our sometimes over-selfish civilization exterminates and drives them from their homes.
There are many reasons why no further delay should be made in securing. a number of the many desirable sites for state memorial parks. Each day, the hand of so-called civilization is making further inroads into our remaining forests. The beauty of our glens and caves is being destroyed by cutting away the shade trees, diverting the streams from our springs, in fact, com- mercial vandalism and private ownership are making an indelible mark on many of the beauty spots which should he sacred to the lover of nature, to our children and future generations that they may see a little of Iowa, at least, in its primitive state.
We say primitive state because we believe that if some pro- posed sites are acquired, and control of them assumed by the State, that nature will reassert herself and recreate or reproduce some of the stately forests that formerly fringed our river banks and lake shores and dotted over our hills. Twenty-five years- erowth added to the present growth of the certain remaining forests of Iowa, with the watchful care of the State, will reforest such tracts as are selected into practically the same condition that existed fifty years ago. With return of the forests and their conversion into, and dedication as, sanctuaries for bird, animal and plant life there will return much of the early wild life that has gradually disappeared from the wooded hills and vales of lowa.
Another particular reason why we believe that immediate ac- tion should be taken is the ever-increasing value of lands in Iowa. Each year’s delay will make the acquisition more expensive to the State. It has been suggested that we secure, at this time, as memorial parks for the State of lowa; some of those beauty spots, and dedicate them to the memory of our boys who have fallen in France and in the other fields, in defense of Democracy and Right. Some suggest that other areas should be dedicated to the leaders and heroes of high standards in lowa attainment in the arts, sciences and sportsmanship. Our allies in France have already dedicated to the memory of the American Marines, a part of the battle field of Belleu Wood as a mark of their love
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 5
and as a tribute to the bravery of the Marines. The general government has named certain areas and objects for great charac- ters of national and international renown. Why should we hesi- tate to assign to our own a fitting memorial?
Let us call attention also to the recreational value of such parks as well as the value to the student and scientist. What would be more commendable than to have located in different parts of the State recreational parks so distributed that prac- tically all sections of the State could be served without traveling to exceed fifty miles except in extreme cases where the enthusiast requires some special type of natural object or advantage? Our wooded river banks and lake shores are ideal for recreational parks as well as valuable for study of natural history, forest re- serve, geology and propagation of wild life, and furnishing splen- did fields for the students of plant life also. Indeed they are now, although owned, fenced, taxed and properly used for grazing and agricultural purposes. Why should a farmer be forever obliged to follow the trespassing stranger every few days to repair fences, close gates and suffer damage, often innocently done, but still committed? Why not acquire and pay for his lands, open them to the full use of the public forever and do justice to all con- cerned?
Summing up our report, we do not hesitate to say that lowa has within its borders many of the rarest places of historical and scientific interest that might be conserved to the general good of its people, that the opportunity of combining comfort and rec- reation, with the knowledge to be obtained from a study of plant life, natural beauty and resources still exists and that we should avail ourselves of the opportunity of acquiring them for all of the people of our state for all time.
It apparently was the intention of the Legislators of Iowa to have this park development financed by using funds collected in the Fish and Game Department. No doubt, a great deal can be accomplished by this plan. Nevertheless, it is bound to be a very ' slow process if the development is left to that fund alone. There is danger that the drawing of any amount from that source will curtail improvements that should be made on the banks or shores of our rivers and lakes and prevent the sufficient stocking of the waters of the State with fish.
We, therefore, do recommend that an annual levy of two-tenths of a mill be made upon all the propetty of the State for the pur-
6 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
pose of acquiring, improving and maintaining Memorial State Parks in the State of Iowa, and that legislation be enacted pro- viding ways and means for the improvement, regulation, con- trol, and proper policing of such parks under the jurisdiction of a State Board of Conservaton and that this be done forthwith.
We would also suggest that the report submitted herewith be published in book form with suitable illustrations, that a suffi- cient number of copies be printed to furnish one copy at least to each Public and School Library in the State of Iowa for refer- ence and educational purposes, that a guide or directory be made up therefrom with such maps, plats, illustrations and road direction as would be suited to the use of the public in finding and visiting all areas and thereby easily and accurately become informed upon every essential of the value, area, extent, cost, in- terest for beauty, history, science and recreation.
We are prompted to make this suggestion from the fact that the report contains data of unusual interest bearing upon the early . history of Iowa, dating from the period when this territory was looked upon more as a trappers’ field than a great industrial and agricultural state; a very complete summary as well as chrono- logical history of the early development of this territory and state, pointing out to youth and recent comers the many history making epochs, localities and sites whereupon vital questions were decided that bore upon the early occupation and develop- ment of this region. The historical nature of this report will be found equal to and perhaps excelled by its interest upon the sub- jects of plant life, forestry, archaeology, geology, physiography and allied subjects.
Respectfully submitted for your consideration,
I. Ei PANEER. ‘Chammant
JOSDRESKREIESO: jk,
JOEUIN SEE @ksD):
BDGAR R. HARLAN, Seeretarye Board of Conservation.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA Bo LAB EIS MENT OF lOWAS PARKS
The law Providing for the same and Proceedings of the Board of Conservation.
Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly and
Amendments thereto.
An Act to authorize the establishment of public parks by the State Fish and Game Warden (the Thirty-eighth General As- sembly amended this Act by substituting for “the State Fish and Game Warden,” “the State Board of Conservation”), by and with the consent of the State Executive Council, and to provide for the improvement of the same, and to create a board of con- servation for the preservation of places of historic, natural or rec- reational interest authorizing donations in aid,of such purposes and to maké an appropriation therefor, providing for aid by municipal corporations and authorizing boards of supervisors to extend county road systems in furtherance of the provisions of this act.
Be It Enacted by the General Assembly of the State of Iowa:
Section 1. The State Board of Conservation by and with the written consent of the Executive Council, is hereby authorized to establish public parks in any county of the State, upon the shores of lakes, streams, or other waters of the State, or at any other places which have by reason of their location become his- toric or which are of scientific interest, or by reason of their natural scenic beauty or location become adapted therefor, and said Board of Conservation, under the supervision of said Execu- tive Council, is hereby authorized to improve and beautify such parks. .When so established they shall be made accessible from the public highways, and in order to establish such parks said Executive Council shall have the power to purchase or condemn lands for said purposes and to purchase and condemn lands for said highway purpose.
Sec. 2. The State Board of Conservation shall, under the di- rection of the Executive Council, have the power to erect dams across streams and across outlets of lakes for the purpose of raising the water level therein, and any damages occasioned to -riparian owners by reason of the raising of such water level shall be paid for out of the fund hereinafter provided for.
8 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Sec. 3. The title to all lands purchased or donated for park or highway purposes under the provisions of this Act shall be taken in the name of the State, and if thereafter it shall be deemed advisable to sell any portion of the land so purchased, the pro- ceeds of such sale shall be placed to the credit of the said Fish and Game Protection Fund (the Thirty-eighth General As- sembly amended this act by substituting for the “Fish and Game Protection Fund,” “Public State Parks Fund,”’) to be used for such park purposes, except that on the request of any of the donors of the fund with which such land was purchased, the amount contributed by the donor making such request shall be refunded to such donor, without interest, provided that applica- tion for such refund must be made within six months from the date of the sale of such lands, and provided also, that no such lands shall be sold except in compliance with legislative enact- ment designating specifically the lands to be sold.
Sec. 4. The Executive Council is empowered and authorized on behalf of the State to receive donations of land for either park or highway purposes in conformity with the provisions of this Act, and lands so donated shall not be sold, and if abandoned by legislative enactment, shall revert to the original owner. ~
Sec. 5. The State Treasurer shall have authority to receive and accept, on behalf of the State, donations for the purpose of aiding in the carrying out of the provisions of this Act, and the donor may specify the place where and the purpose or purposes for which said donation is to be used or expended, and when such specification is made to the Executive Council by the donor the donated funds shall be expended for no other purpose.
Sec. 6. The State Board of Conservation shall permit the im- provement of such parks, when established, or the improvement of bodies of water, upon the border of which such parks may be established, by the expenditure of private or other funds, such ~ improvement to be done, however, under the direction of the State Board of Conservation, by and with the consent of the Executive Council. The Executive Council may call upon any agencies of the state for assistance and information. When such state agencies’ traveling expenses are not otherwise provided for, they shall be paid from the Public State Parks fund, as other traveling expenses are paid.
Sec. 7. Municipalities, or individuals, or corporations or- ganized for that purpose only, acting separately or in conjunc-
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 9
tion with each other, may establish like parks outside the limits of cities or towns, and when established without the support of the Public State Parks fund, the municipalities, corporations or persons establishing the same, as the case may be, shall have con- trol thereof independently of the Executive Council. Provided, however, that none of the said municipalities, individuals or cor- porations, acting under the provisions of this section shall establish, maintain or operate any such parks as herein contem- plated for pecuniary profit.
Sec. 8. The board of supervisors of any county in which there is a body of water which may be improved under the provisions of this Act is hereby authorized, at their discretion, to add to the county road system from the township roads, such roads as will make said body of water more accessible, or unite existing county roads to make a county road around a meandered lake.
Sec. 9. The said Executive Council shall designate three per- sons, who, with the Curator of the Historical Department, shall constitute a Board of Conservation, who shall serve without pay. Such Board of Conservation shall investigate places in [owa, valuable as objects of natural history, forest reserves, as archaeology and geology, and investigate the means of promoting forestry and maintaining and preserving animal and bird life in this State and furnish such information to the Executive Council for the conservation of the natural resources: of the State, from time to time, and said recommendations shall be printed in such numbers as the Council shall authorize, and shall be furnished each member of the succeeding General Assembly.
Sec. 10. The Board of Conservation and the Executive Coun- cil, acting jointly, shall from time to time make such regulations as they deem necessary or advisable for the management, control or policing of said lands, arid shall cause said regulations to be printed on card-board, wood or metal signs and posted in said parks. The destruction or mutilation of said signs bearing said regulations shall be deemed a misdemeanor. Said regulation, however, shall in no wise interfere with the local police powers.
Sec. 11. (The Thirty-eighth General Assembly amended this section by substituting the following:) For the purpose of carry- ing into effect the provisions of this Act, there shall be appropri- ated out of the Fish and Game Protection fund any portion there- of which is in the judgment of the Executive Council, unnecessary
10 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
for the support and maintenance of the Fish and Game Depart- ment and in addition thereto there shall be appropriated out of any moneys in the State Treasury not otherwise appropriated,
the sum of $100,000.00.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 11
PROCEEDINGS OF THE BOARD. Des Moines, Iowa, December 27, 1918.
The Executive Council met in special session for the purpose of conferring with the Board of Conservation with reference to the future development and conservation of the natural resources of the state and the adoption of a general policy with reference to the purchase and improvement of park sites and natural beauty spots as well as the preservation of points of geological and archaeological interest as contemplated by Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly. The entire membership of the Board of Conservation was present, including E. R. Har- lan, Curator of the Historical Department, Professor L. H. Pam- mel, of Ames, Hon. John F. Ford, of Fort Dodge, and the Hon. Joseph Kelso, of Bellevue. There was also present at the con- ference, Thomas MacDonald, Chief Highway Engineer, L. E. Foglesong, Associate Landscape Architect of the Capitol Grounds Extension, and O. W. Crowley, Capitol Grounds Extension Engineer, and Senator B. W. Newberry, of Strawberry Point.
The matter of a general policy for the state to pursue in the preservation of park sites and points of natural beauty within the state was discussed at some length. L. H. Pammel and FE. R. Harlan addressed the conference upon the subject with an outline of plans which should be pursued in such work.
The matter of purchase of the “Devil’s Back Bone” property in Delaware County as an initial step in the direction of state ownership of parks was taken up for consideration. L. H. Pam- mel, E. R. Harlan, L. E., Foglesong, Senator Newberry and Treasurer E. H. Hoyt discussed the various angles of the desira- bility of this property for preservation as a state park, recom- mending that it be purchased. At noon the conference adjourned for the purpose of permitting the Board of Conservation to meet as a Board and organize and adopt resolutions for submission to pie council.
Des Moines, Iowa, December 27, 1918.
The Board of Conservation assembled, in the office of the Treasurer of State all the members, Dr. L. H. Pammel, Curator E. R. Harlan, Hon. Joseph Kelso, Jr., and Hon. John F. Ford being present.
12 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
The meeting was called to order by Curator Harlan. By motion Dr. Pammel was elected chairman of the Board. By motion Curator Harlan was elected secretary.
The following resolution, presented by E. R. Harlan, was adopted unanimously and-ordered presented to the State Execu- tive Council, representing the sentiment of the Board of Con- servation as to the general policy which that body regarded as essential for the proper development of the state’s resources and particularly with reference to the purchase of the “Devil’s Back Bone” property in Delaware county.
Whereas, the matter of the report of the State Game Warden, E. C. Hinshaw, recommending for acquisition by the State of Iowa the area in Delaware county, generally known as the ‘Devil’s Back Bone,” being before the Board of Conservation and being made a part of the minutes of this meeting, and:
Whereas, the area having been thoroughly examined by members of the Board, together with other persons authorized and directed by ane Executive Council so to do, it is
Resolved that the Board of Conservation recommend to the Executive Council, in compliance with the report and the recommendation of the Game Warden, the purchase of not less than twelve hundred (1,200) acres, or aS much more as may to the Council seem advisable to acquire, for a state park, in the region of what is known as the “Devil’s Back Bone,” Delaware county, Iowa, the same to embrace both banks of the Maquoketa river at Forest Mills and up stream to what is known as Trout Brook and both banks of the latter stream up to and including Richniond Spring, together with such additional grounds as may to the Excutive Council seem adequate to the purpose of the statute.
A more detailed and specific report of the scientific, scenic and historic qualities of said area is to be filed later and made a part of this report.
Resolved that in consideration of the service and sacrifice by men and women of this state to the purpose and achievement of our common country in the World War, and of Iowa valor in the Civil War and other wars, that the policy hereby initiated in the public affairs of Iowa shall be the mark of our obligation and is the solemn tribute of this day and hour; therefore, we recommend that all areas in pursuance of Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly, should be known and denominated as Iowa Memorial Parks.
The Executive Council convened at 2:00 p. m. with all mem- bers present.
The report of the Board of Conservation as to officers elected and the adoption of the foregoing resolution was presented to the Council by E. R. Harlan, Secretary of the Board of Conserva- tion. After some discussion, the following resolution was offered by Governor Harding:
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 13
Whereas, the State Game Warden, HE. C. Hinshaw, has recommended the purchase by the State Executive Council of Iowa of an area in Delaware county known as the ‘“Devil’s Back Bone,’ and adjacent property necesssary for encompassing the natural boundary lines of said “‘Devil’s Back Bone” and sufficient for the establishment of a re- creation spot—said area to include not less than twelve hundred (1,200) acres of ground subject to the judgment of the Executive Council, and —
Whereas, the State Board of Conservation has adopted a resolution as set out in the foregoing record recommending such purchase and the establishment of a general policy by the state for purchasing and acquir- ing areas and tracts of lands suitable for park purposes as provided under Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly, to be known as Iowa Memorial Parks, therefore,
Be it resolved, by the Executive Council of the state of Iowa that the sum of sixty thousand ($60,000.00) dollars in the state treasury, provided for and set aside for the purchase of parks under Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly, being appropriated for the pur- chase of the property known as the ‘Devil’s Back Bone” in Delaware county, of not less than twelve hundred (1,200) acres and that said sum be set aside in a separate fund to be drawn against for the purchase of such property. |
Be it further resolved that the Council concur in the recommendations of-the State Board of Conservation for the definite state policy for the establishment of a series of parks to be known as the Iowa Memorial Parks in consideration of and in commemoration of the service and sacrifice by men and women of the state to the purpose and achieve- ment of our common country in the World War, and of Iowa valor in the Civil and other wars.
Be it further resolved that Auditor Shaw and Treasurer Hoyt be ap: pointed by the State Executive Council as representatives of the Council and delegated with authority to act in the purchase of the property known as the ‘“Devil’s Back Bone” in Delaware county for State Park purposes as recommended by EH. C. Hinshaw, State Fish and Game Warden and the State Board of Conservation, and,
Be it further resolved that the said State Auditor, F. S. Shaw, and State Treasurer, E. H. Hoyt, have set apart for the purpose of making the purchase contemplated under this resolution as delegates of the Executive Council for binding said contracts as fast as entered into the sum of five thousand ($5,000.00) dollars from the funds available for said purpose as provided under Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly, and
Be it further resolved that the said Auditor Shaw and Treasurer Hoyt be authorized to enter into contracts with the owners of said land and make a small payment of not to exceed two ($2.00) dollars per acre to bind the contract and that they be authorized to sign contract for and on behalf of the Executive Council for the State of Iowa in said matter—the title to said land to be taken in the name of the State of Iowa, and,
Be it further resolved that no part of such land shall be contracted for by the said Auditor Shaw and Treasurer Hoyt for which the agreed
14 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
price is to exceed sixty ($60.00) dollars per acre, except that when the said Auditor Shaw and Treasurer Hoyt are unable to agree upon a price within the amount fixed as a maximum price, the Governor is authorized to appoint a committee of three members, one of whom shall reside in Manchester, one in Strawberry Point, and one in Lamont, and it shall be the duty of the purchasing committee to get the approval in writing of all members of the Valuation Committee in every purchase of real estate in excess of said fixed maximum. All members of the Council voted aye, and the resolution was declared adopted.
Governor Harding announced the following standing com- mittee, as a valuation Committee, in pursuance of the foregoing resolution: Hon. George W. Dunham, Manchester; Hon. B. W. Newberry, Strawberry Point; W. A. Abbott, of Lamont.
Council Bluffs, lowa, January 1, 1919.
The Board of Conservation convened at the Grand hotel. Those present, Messrs. Pammel, Ford, Kelso and Harlan.
The matter of the inspection of the Lower Des Moines area being before the Board, the separate reports of Dr. Pammel and Mr. Harlan were read and that of Mr. Kelso orally made, all were taken under consideration.
It was moved by Mr. Ford that the area designated as The. Lower Des Moines area, namely from Belfast to Eldon, be recom- mended for acquisition, the recommendation to be accompanied with maps and descriptive details showing accurately the essen- tials necessary, for the Executive Council to have before it in order to exactly describe the lands proposed to be acquired and that the character of the same for historic, scenic and scientific value to the present and future public. Motion carried.
Mr. Harlan submitted the following resolutions:
Whereas, this Board seeks the ends aimed at by the Fish and Game Department, by the Executive Council, and all concerned in the execution of Chapter 236, Acts of the Thirty-seventh General Assembly, and
Whereas, The authority and responsibility of the Board remains some-
what vague with respect to the best ways and means for assisting in the execution of said statute, and
Whereas, by statute it is within the power of the state to arrive at the fair and accurate values of all lands it acquires for public purposes through condemnation proceedings, wherein a jury of appraisement shall be constituted so that no more than one member shall hail from a county wherein lands to be condemned shall be situated,
Resolved, that it is the sense of this Board that in the matter of prices to be agreed to for lands to be acquired, the Executive Council
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 15
arrive at the same through the convocation of a board in every instance, the members of said board to have that ability, integrity and place of residence fitting for service upon a condemnation jury, and
Resolved, that wherever owners and state do not agree upon the same or a less consideration fixed by said Board, the state shall proceed as a matter of course to the acquisition by condemnation.
Resolved, that recommendation to the Executive Council be formulated by members Ford and Kelso, of such character as shall, when made public, make clear to all concerned both that this Board has nothing to do with negotiations for acquiring and the persons and conditions governing acquisition.
The resolutions were adopted.
Mr. Harlan moved that a circular letter be prepared suitable to publish and to mail, setting out in brief the objects, the terms and the considerations for the acquiring of lands under this act, said circular to contain, among other things, the following:
“It is respectfully suggested that the state of Iowa wishes to acquire such lands as can be acquired by gift or from proceeds available from the hunting license fees, paid in, where said lands would be suited to be held by the state for public gathering places such as reunions, celebrations and picnics or to commemorate any worthy person or historic event; or to afford assistance in the study in the field and from natural phenomena to students of the natural history of our state; or for camping, hunting, fishing, bathing and other recreational pastimes; or for the purpose of the preservation or propagation of species of wild, native animals and plants otherwise rare or in danger of extermination.
“Tt is the province of this Board to accept suggestions of such areas and to search for and report the same for acquisition by the Executive Council, on behalf of the state, but the Board, having no power to contract, is not interested in securing options or other tentative or final money terms. This is wholly in the hands of the Executive Council, who will make all negotiations.
“This Board reports as to why an area ought to be acquired and you can therefore greatly aid by furnishing responses to the fol- lowing inquiries : ;
“What are the historical facts connected with the area? Where have the facts been published?
“What are the scientific facts connected with the area? Who has written of these and where were his ideas published?
“What are the interesting points for sightseeing and what things are to be seen?
16 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
“Mention waters, trees, rocks, mounds, houses and everything ”
you consider interesting.’ The motion, being put, it was unanimously carried.
Dr. Pammel moved that a list of places now thought suitable to be reported to the Executive Council for reservation be pre- pared, based upon the list of Dr. Shimek, but elaborated as to the places cited and augmented by information possessed at present or that may be accumulated by the membership by our next meeting.
Mr. Kelso seconded the motion, with the proviso, that such list be prepared by Messrs. Pammel and Harlan.
As amended the motion was put and carried unanimously.
By Harlan: I wish to submit, with the view of asking the approval of the Executive Council, an outline of the scope it ap- pears to me we are expected to take. This is marked “C” and attached to these minutes entitled “Scheme for Investigation and Report.”
By Ford: I think the scheme ought to be considered by this Board as outlining its field, and be submitted to the Executive Council for its consideration. If by the Council approved, then the Secretary should be directed to prepare in a form for publica- tion, such matter as fairly falls within the scope of the scheme.
By Mr. Kelso: I move that it is the sense of the Board that Messrs. Harlan and Pammel prepare such matter as is of probable interest and value, as suggested by Mr. Ford.
By Ford: I second the motion.
The motion, being put, was unanimously carried.
By Mr. Harlan: There are a great number of citizens who own desirable park sites, yet who have no descendants. I believe there are those who would willingly bequeath to Iowa certain lands or other valuable property if it were administered and made a credit memorially to the object chosen by the donor. Therefore,
I move that the Executive Council be requested to pledge the state to accept and to carry out any testimonial arrangement that will both benefit the public and be a credit to the donor, provided the state shall not be obligated to pay out money, except such as is in the bequest, and provided the state shall reserve the absolute authority to design every structural object and approve every inscriptive text proposed to be used in carrying out the bequest and provided, further, that such bequest shall be always, in records and maps issued by the state relating to this subject, there
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 17
shall be a suitable and sufficient designation of the area or object bequeathed, so that the fact of the bequest shall never become lost or confused in the records and in the intelligent interest of the public. .
Motion was adopted.
Des Moines, Iowa, February 12, 1919.
The State Board of Conservation met at the office of the Curator of the State Historical Department, members present, Messrs. Kelso, Ford and Pammel.
Motion passed accepting the Ford report.
Motion passed accepting the letter of transmittal by Mr. Ford.
Motion passed that the board recommend the conservation of areas in Southeastern lowa and that the immediate conserva- tion of areas in Southwestern Iowa follow:
The following resolutions were adopted:
Resolved that the Board of Conservation express their appreciation of the courtesy and assistance rendered to them by the staff of the Historical Department, two members of the staff of the State Agricultural College and to Dr. Lees, State Geologist, and
Resolved that the same be made a part of the minutes of this meeting and that a letter to the Executive Council be written to contain the same
and also to voice the findings of the Board regarding the favorable opinions expressed by the general public.
Adjourned.
Des Moines, Iowa, Feb. 22, 1919. A meeting of the Conservation Board and the Fish and Game Warden with the Executive Council was held in the office of Treasurer of State.
The meeting was called to order by Treasurer E. H. Hoyt; present of the Executive Council, E. H. Hoyt and F. S. Shaw; Fish and Game Warden, Hinshaw; of the Conservation Board, J. F. Ford, Joseph Kelso Jr. and L. H. Pammel, Mr. Harlan being absent. State Treasurer Hoyt invited W. C. Ratcliff and W. H. Walrath, respectively of the House and Senate Committees on Conservation, to meet with the Conservation Board and the Executive Council.
The committee went over the doubtful clauses in the proposed bill, and the doubtful passages were whipped into shape. It was
A -
18 PUBLIC “PARKS OF IOWA
then left to Mr. Hoyt to get the bill in shape. Mr. Hoyt intro- duced Mr. Ratcliff and Mr. Walrath. Mr. Hoyt then went over the present law and told of the appointment of the Conservation Board, after which L. H. Pammel told of the work of Messrs. Harlan, Kelso and Ford in getting up the report. The discussion was participated in by Messrs. Ford, Kelso, Hinshaw, Hoyt and Shaw. The president then read the title of the bill and the head lines and portions pertaining to Memorial State Parks, Highway Parks and Lake Parks. It was the consensus of opinion acting on the suggestion of Mr. Hoyt, that we meet with the Conservation Committee of the Senate and House at a dinner in the Grant Club rooms.
It was also unanimously agreed that the bill be introduced as a committee bill in the House and Senate. Adjourned.
Cedar Rapids, lowa, April 26, 1919.
A meeting of the Conservation Board was called in Cedar Rapids on April 26, 1919, for the purpose of inspecting the area known as Palisades in Linn County, an urgent invitation having been extended by Mr. Fred Lazell, of Cedar Rapids, the Commer- cial Clubs of both Cedar Rapids and Mt. Vernon, the Conserva- tion Circles of lowa City and Cedar Rapids and some members of the faculty of the State University and Cornell College.
The Board met at 8:15 p. m. in the parlors of the Montrose Hotel. There were present Joseph Kelso, Jr:; J. F.Ford, Ding H. Pammel, Mr. Harlan being absent.
In the afternoon an inspection was made of West Palisade, some eighteen miles from Cedar Rapids. The Board was taken to this region by Fred Lazell, Attorneys Wick and Bolton of Cedar Rapids and Professors Kelley and Keyes of Mt. Vernon. There were also present the executive board of Iowa Conserva- tion Association consisting of G. B. McDonald, Euclid Saunders, Mr. Bennett, Dr. Kay, Mrs. C. H. McNider and Mrs. Fred Lazell.
At the meeting on the evening of April 26th the following action was taken:
It was decided that we take no action concerning the Palisades at this time, though we think it a very desirable park site and think it should be acquired by the State.
That Mr. Harlan, Secretary of the Board, be asked to draft rules, giving methods of procedure to acquire park sites, that
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 19
this be prepared and presented to the Executive Council at an early date. That we have a joint meeting with the Executive Council and go over the matter of acquiring State Parks under the amended law.
A communication from Mrs. Kappel, of Nashua, in regard to a state park site was placed on file.
Communications from Senator Holdoegel in regard to Twin Lakes and Bone Yard Hollow in Webster County and petitions from citizens of Waukon and Postville in regard to state park sites near Waterville and the Yellow River region were placed on file for consideration at an early date.
A request was received from Mrs. C. H. McNider, of Mason City, asking that we take up as soon as possible the matter of Pike’s Peak area and the offer from Mrs. Munn to the United States government. Mrs. McNider asked the State Conservation Board to try to secure this gift for the state so that the area might be secured immediately for state park purposes.
With reference to the natural bridge in Jackson County, Joseph Kelso stated that the citizens of Jackson County would materially assist in securing this area.
The Board agreed that the following areas should be visited at an early date:
North Central Iowa and adjacent regions, Pilot Mound area, Twin Lake, Wall Lake, and Storm Lake, the largest boulder in the United States in Floyd County, Bone Yard Hollow in Web- ster County, Ledges in Boone County, Devil’s Backbone in Madi- son County, Steamboat Rock, and Wild Cat Den in Hardin County; South Eastern Iowa, Red Rock, Marion County, Keo- sauqua, Ottumwa and adjacent regions, Wild Cat Den and Odessa Lake, Muscatine County; North Eastern Iowa, Natural Bridge in Jackson County, an area near Oxford Junction, Jones County, Dubuque, Bixby’s Park, and McGregor, Waterville and Yellow River, Allamakee County, Ice Caves, Winneshiek County, Mills, Fremont and Montgomery Counties and adjacent regions in South West Iowa.
The communities where parks are desired are asked to furnish the Board with complete data of price of land, to furnish topo- graphic maps, and give the Board information as to gifts in the way of land, etc.
20 4 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Keosauqua, Iowa, July 12, 1919.
Present Messrs. Pammel, Harlan and Ford. The members having visited the region of Lee and Van Buren counties and being in company with B. F. Ketcham, Phil K. Ware and others of Farmington, inspected an area locally called “Big Duck Pond,” the same being a hilly, wooded tract near the middle of which is a spring-fed shallow lake, approximately forty acres in extent, now more than two-thirds covered by a gorgeous field of lotus. The woods embrace a vast variety of plant life, for instance, of the oak species a hasty examination disclosed everything native to Iowa except the pin oak, and it is believed that even this exists.
The above named citizens and their associates proposed to the Soard of Conservation that if within a reasonably near future the
its state would take over and administer the same, by at least re- pairing the dam and restoring the lake level to its former height. and by making the margins of the lake accessible by roads, the said citizens would acquire title and possession of not less than 100 acres, embracing the wood and lake areas, and present the same cost free to the state of Iowa.
They further suggest the average cost per acre would be about
$75.00.
The Board observes the dam referred to is a dirt dam approxi- mately four feet across the top; not to exceed six feet in height; erected at some prior time but cut through by a former stream outlet. It observes that road-ways lead upon and into the lands by way of gates both from the north and south approaches. It observes that the lake itself is within 1000 yards of the Des - Moines river, on the margin of which is a public highway gen- erally traveled from the town of Athens in Missouri to Farm- ington, Iowa, and extending respectively to beyond these two points.
The Board considers that if the citizens will obtain the 100-acre area in such a way that it will extend all about the lake and on’ down its outlet to the Des Moines river, and otherwise con- form to their proposition, the board considers the offer a valu- able one and hereby recommends to the Executive Council the acquisition of the lands in compliance with the terms thereof.
Adjourned.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 21
Keosauqua, Iowa, July 12, 1919.
Members present same as at the meeting at Keosauqua this date. The members having been conducted to and about the area locally known as the “Ely’s Branch Country” by Messrs. Bn. ©. Blackledge, Emory Ploughman, Arthur J.,Secor, Ji A. Brown and Sgt. H. E. Rees, and finding the said area a large un- interrupted expanse of native shrubs and trees, the ground deeply broken and otherwise well suited to the preservation of wild birds, animals and plants, and the same being accessible on all sides by a well traveled highway from which by-roads lead toward the center north margin, an ancient ford across the Des Moines river, and said lands being bounded for an extent of something like a mile on the north side by the Des Moines river and extend- ing back from the river a distance of from one to three miles formerly of the character above described, and the members hav- ing observed an unusual number of quail and having observed upon a prior trip in February of the present year four different ruffed grouse, and the Board having learned that the hills and river bank above stated now and for many years have been re- sorted to by people residing from nearby to a distance of 20 miles as a place of recreation, and the Board having been assured by the above named gentlemen that at least 600 acres of said lands could be procured at an average cost of not exceeding $40.00 per acre upon which purchase price they and other citizens would be willing to contribute a sum of not less than $6,400, if the’ state would take the same, administer and conduct it as a game reserve and recreation ground.
In the course of the state’s policy of providing and maintaining its system of state parks, and the Board considering the above described area and the proposition made concerning the same to be respectively advantageous, considers that the same should be accepted and do hereby recommend that the Executive Council do accept, acquire and improve said grounds in accordance with the terms of the offer made.
Adjourned.
Davenport, Iowa, July 19, 1919. Present: Dr. L. H. Pammel, President; E. H. Harlan, Secre- tary ; Joseph Kelso, member. The Board met in session at the office of Cook & Balluff, and held conference with Miss Emma C. Brandt and Miss Clara LL.
bo bo
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Brandt, who are the owners of the farm lands in Muscatine County, known as “Wild Cat Den” embracing some fifty-five acres, and a great part of a more extended area of high value for State Park purposes, because of its scenic, scientific and historic characteristics. The following was adopted:
Whereas, the Misses Brandt propose as follows: To deed to the State of Iowa by appropriate deeds, the tract of land above referred to, but not herein specifically described, with the understanding that the same shall be a part of a State Park, under the control and supervision of the State Board of Conservation, upon the following conditions:
1. That the State Board of Conservation shall proceed within two years, to acquire either by purchase or gift. at least seventeen acres from one Welsh and twenty acres from one Fitchner, and from the owners thereof, the land lying between the southerly line of the property now owned by the Misses Brandt to the Mississippi River, and along Pine Creek, and extending westwardly to the highway, and eastwardly to a suf- ficient distance from said Creek, so as to include suitable grounds on the east side.
2. That the land agreed to be donated shall always be used for a State Park and shall never be used for any commercial purposes.
3. That the native plants found on the land shall be preserved, and that the forests on the land shall be kept intact except where it shall be necessary to give place to roads and paths, and that in case of de- struction or removal of any of the trees they shall be replaced by native species.
4. That the State Board of Conservation shall assume all responsi- bility for the proper care and protection of the land as soon as the land is delivered over to the State Board of Conservation, and that the neces- sary warden or keeper shall be provided.
5. That the donors of said land reserve the right of use and occupa- tion of the buildings and surrounding land sufhcient to provide a suitable yard and space for the necessary outbuildings, not exceeding seven acres and to be definitely designated and marked by appropriate monuments or fence. That this reservation shall be one of full ownership, except that the donors shall not sell, trade, or exchange the land or building, but upon voluntary relinquishment, and upon the death of the survivor of the two donors, the land and buildings shall automatically revert to the State, and become a part of the State Park.
6. That the State Board of Conservation, upon taking over the land as described, shall begin making arrangements at the earliest convenience, to make the necessary immediate improvements, entrances and exits, so that the State Park shall be open to the general public within two years from the date of the delivery of the deeds.
r
7. That if, at the end of two years. from the date of this offer, the State has failed to begin the necessary improvements, and have not > opened the park to the public, or have not taken care of same, that this deed shall then be null and void.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 23
‘ 8. That if in the future the State Board of Conservation shall have failed to carry out the conditions enumerated herein, that the land as described shall then revert to the owners or their heirs.
9. That the said State Park when established shall be known and named as “Wild Cat Den” or some derivative thereof.
And, whereas, the above and foregoing offer is a valuable condition precedent to the creation of a suitable State Park, of which the gift is a nucleus; and
Whereas, a total area of not less than three hundred acres is desirable for such park, the use and value of which to the region surrounding of a radius of perhaps twenty miles would receive a benefit of approximately half that to the public at large, it is the opinion of the State Board of Con- servation that this gift shall be accepted on the conditions made, and that in order to acquire the balance of the lands, the Board should cause the co-operation with it on behalf of the citizens in the immediate neigh- borhood in the following or some other practical way:
First:—The citizens should assure the Board the entire area additional to the 55 acres, which shall be acquired within one year of this date, at an average cost per acre of not to exceed ...... dollars per acre.
Second:—Of the total cost price of lands additional to the 55 acres the citizens of the locality should contribute not less than Five Thousand ($5000) Dollars, and the State pay the balance of the purchase price.
Third:—Upon the completion of these conditions the State should take over, improve, administer and maintain forever the area as a State Park. carrying these conditions in substance in its records, upon its maps. guides and tablets, in such a way as to carry into the most remote fu- ture, the element of philanthropy entering into the gift of the Brandt sisters. : :
A committee is hereby created to consist of Mr. Kelso and the Secre- tary, which is hereby directed to submit to the Executive Council a copy of these minutes for the tentative approval of said Council, and upon said tentative approval, the Committee is directed forthwith to proceed by personal, or other methods, to a proper arrangement with the local citizens for the prompt and effectual carrying out of the conditions hereof.
Tama, lowa, July 21, 1919.
Present: Chairman L. H. Pammel, Secretary E. R. Harlan, Mr. Kelso, member.
The Commission being in conference with Messrs. H. T. Cherry, F. A. Solomon, H. L. Roberts, E. E. Goodell and George Austin, proceeded to examine an area embracing the reservoir, embracing some forty acres of water artificially impounded, the grounds thereabouts including the race or ditch leading thereto from a point upon the Iowa river some four miles upstream, and a number of sites of hilly, wooded character nearby.
24 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
The citizens represented to the Commission that the reservoir and all its attributes are the private property of the Cherry Co., manufacturers of straw-board products, one indispensable supply being a constant head of running water at present of a volume of 1500 gal. per minute.
It is possible an eventual requirement of 3000 gal. per minute may result from expanded business. It was represented that under the present construction and at the lowest stage of the water in the Iowa River, the said quantity of 1500 gal. is regu- larly delivered together with an additional volume wasted over the retaining embankment of the full actual amount. In other words, there is always flowing fully 3000 gal. per minute of which the half only is at present required.
It was further represented that said flow of water possibly em- braces some power value. _
It was represented to the Board that the citizens are ready and willing to turn over to the Board the reservoir, ditch and grounds going therewith of a width from the water’s edge of not less than 100 feet in all directions except where the railroad embankment forms part of the retaining wall, provided the State would convert the same into a recreation ground or park, and would deliver the Cherry Company a maximum of 3000 gal. per minute or as much thereof as the flow of the Iowa River, under proper control, will supply ; and provided that if said Cherry Company in future desire, they may, without interference of the State, use of the stream or reservoir, produce power therefrom.
The Board, taking into account the peculiar interest to the public at large of the Musquakie Indians on their reservation of some 3600 acres of land through which the Iowa River and the Lincoln Highway run, both of which are approximately parallel with each other and with the Milwaukee and North Western Railroads from the dam in the Iowa River on this Indian Reser- vation to the city,of Tama, are of the opinion that what ever shall be done with respect to a state park or any reservation on the part of the State, ought to recognize the quality of interest pro- posed by the Indian reservation and so establish and direct the state’s interests as to afford some benefit to the Indians on the reservation as well as derive benefit therefrom. Therefore, the
3oard directed its Secretary to take up and pursue with the Indians and all other necessary authorities, a plan of connecting with any use that may be made of the aforesaid water and its surroundings, with the Indian Reservation as such.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 25
It is suggested by the Secretary that he ascertain whether the Indians could and would be willing to give over to the State of Iowa for at least an experimental period of five years, the use of not less than fifty acres of their lands not now in cultivation and lying as near to the Iowa River dam as they will allow, reaching up to and over the high lands, and if there is no impedi- ment to this arrangement whether the state would be empowered to use such lands as its own upon a demand of a reasonable rate of interest upon the actual value of the lands.
The Board further considered that if no suitable arrangement could be made to the satisfaction of the Indians and to this Board, that then an area of some 50 or 60 acres lying contiguous or convenient to said reservation, Lincoln Highway and supply ditch of said reservoir, at a minimum cash value, be acquired.
And it appearing that the question of providing and maintain- ing the required flow of water for the use of the Cherry Company implies a study and conclusion with regard to the difficulty and expense of the necessary engineering and constructing elements, particularly of the erection and maintenance of a suitable dam, the dredging and deepening of the ditch and lake, and the widen- ing of the embankments call for a considerable amount of tech- nical investigation of which the Cherry Company already has conducted a part, if not the whole, it is by the Board therefore
Requested that the citizens of Tama accepting the assurance of the Board that the project of making a state park of the na- tural and artificial elements investigated, procure and submit to this Board a complete investigation and survey with plans, speci- fications and estimates such as would be demanded by any conservative and substantial person looking to the establish- ment of this project as a commercial enterprise, and especially for the construction of a suitable dam in the Iowa River, the deepening and widening of the race or ditch, the widening of the embankment and the dredging of the lake, all so itemized that the Board would be advised with respect to one without necessarily considering the other elements of this problem. Also, it is re- quested of these citizens that they advise further, if the Board finds it cannot recommend the taking over of the reservoir and ‘the ditch and the provision of the necessary construction and maintenance to produce a suitable recreation enterprise, the citizens would provide cost free to the State, the area of eighteen acres south of the reservoir, so well suited for the creation of
26 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
a garden of wet land, trees, shrubs and flowers, and also in case the Secretary of this Board shall fail to procure a suitable con- cession of Indian lands, a further area conveniently near the In- dian Reservation and to the Lincoln Highway and the reservoir, or lake should be acquired. If said citizens are unable to assure the Board the delivery cost free of both the eighteen acre tract and the hill land—if the Secretary fail to obtain the Indian lands ——then it is requested to know what maximum amount of money would be required of the State to pay for either or both of these tracts and what percentage, if any of the purchase price would the citizens engage to bear.
The Board considers that owing to the complicated character
of this opportunity but the extraordinary interest thereof, it is
justified in asking the fullest participation on the part of the citizens of Tama in the preliminary investigation and in its final solution.
The Secretary will certify these minutes to the Executive Council as an indication of the policy of the Board with respect to the Tama area and as an evidence of its good faith to the citizens of Tama. |
McGregor, Iowa, July 28, 1919.
Present: Gov. Harding and Treasurer Hoyt of the Executive Council, Chairman Pammel, Secretary Harlan, Mr. Kelso, Mr. Ford, Asst. Secretary Mott, Fish and Game Warden Albert, Asst. Warden St. John and others. Meeting held at the office of F. G. Bell.
Mrs. Viva Dutton, of Charles City, was present and addressed the meeting upon the subject of the reservation of the notable granite boulder near Charles City. A motion by Mr. Kelso was adopted referring the matter to Dr. Pammel and Mr. Ford to investigate and report.
Mr. Cooper of Boone, representing the Commercial Club of that city, presented the subject of acquiring the area known as “The Ledges” near that city. The substance of the Board's response was that a considerable area should be acquired there embracing the Ledges and sufficient ground to perpetuate na- tural plant and animal life and room for the parking of cars in large numbers and for every element of recreational grounds. Mr. Cooper was further advised that inasmuch as a large proportion of the benefit expected to result would be to an area roughly
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 27
estimated for a radius of twenty miles, it would be only fair if within such radius there be raised a portion of the purchase price of the lands, and that all the lands be tendered the state free from excessive values and clear of litigation and all other embarrass- ing details. The board accepted Mr. Cooper’s suggestion that it would in the fall meet with his club and canvass the matter.
Mrs. H. J. Taylor, of Sioux City, appeared before the Board, petitioning orally, asking that additional grounds to Stone Park be secured and saying the business men of Sioux City represent to her that the city will turn over Stone Park to the State if this additional ground be secured by the State. Mr. Ford and Dr. Pammel were appointed to investigate this matter.
Dr. Pammel asks that the Board investigate the Big Springs and the Balsam fir grove in Allamakee County and that arrange- ments be made to acquire this area.
Dr. Pammel reports that Hon. Ellison Orr and others of Alla- makee County urge that this area be preserved, at least that the stock be kept out until the area be acquired.
There was also a similar request as to the Pine groves near Waterville. The Board appointed Messrs. Harlan and Pammel a committee to which these areas were referred.
Motion was passed requesting the Executive Council to ap- prove the Board’s recommendations for acquiring the Keosauqua and Farmington areas.
Motion was passed that the Board authorize the attendance at the McGregor meeting of Assistant Secretary Mott and of stenographer, Miss Scott.
Motion passed directing Chairman Pammel, Secretary Harlan and W. E. Albert to draft and pramulgate temporary rules to govern Backbone Park.
Motion passed appointing Chairman Pammel and Secretary Harlan a committee on the naming of parks.
Motion passed requesting the Executive Council to furnish the Board with a map or survey of the Backbone area.
Motion passed giving Dr. Pammel authority to make an exhibit at the State Fair.
Motion passed authorizing Mr. Kelso to negotiate for the Morehead Caves area.
Motion passed appointing Dr. Pammel and State Fish and Game Warden Albert a, committee to investigate and report what action should be taken by this Board with reference to
28
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
areas around Clear Lake, Okoboji, Spirit Lake, Twin Lakes and
other
lakes and to report.
The following resolution was, by motion of E. R, Harlan,
adopted : That lake park areas should be treated as follows:
(a)
(b)
Where the acquisition of areas is solely the question, these be automatically for the attention at convenience of Chairman Pammel and Warden Albert, tg report to this Board.
Where the matter relates to dams, water levels, riparian or other rights, dredging, reclamation or other matters involving the au- thority and responsibility of one or more of the following:
The Executive Council;
The Fish and Game Department;
The Board of Conservation;
The county, municipality or drainage districts in the réspective regions, the Secretary of this Board shall assemble every question, arrange an itinerary in the month of October on which all the bodies named or representatives thereof shall proceed to the re- spective areas and after ample public notice confer with all con- cerned and jointly or severally the bodies dispose of the questions as they may be presented.
SENTIMENTS ON RECREATION PLACES
UYU HULA
GEORGE W. CLARKE W. L. Harpine Joun F. Lacey
FRANKLIN ‘K. LANE PRED i). CAZEE
Tuomas H. MacBripE STEPHEN H. MATHER
Mark TWwaINn
PULAU
SENTIMENTS ON RECREATION PLACES
NATURE WAS KIND TO IOWA From Inaugural Address of Gov. Wm. L. Harding, January 16, 1919.
Nature was in a most pleasant mood when our land was fashioned. She bounded us by two mighty rivers, here ever to be harnessed for power unlimited. She pencilled the landscape for beauty and util- ity. She left lake, and stream, and wooded hill, she gave forest and prairie for the pioneer, and coal to turn the wheels of industry.
Life in abundance was hid in the soil, waiting only the hand of the plowman and springtime’s gentle kiss to blossom into a harvest abundant to feed a hungry world.
Here can be builded a civilization fashioned in the image of the Maker and translated into reality by the genius of man that shall be peer and leader of all the world.
Play spots are necessary in building a permanent state. Men and women are but children grown up. Heart joys and heartaches are common to us all. Sentiment and tradition are threads that hold us steady and bring us back to the old homestead or the place of our birth.
PEOPLE URGED 10: PLANT TREES
From Arbor Day Proclamation of, Gov. George W. Clarke, made February 4, 1913.
John Ruskin said: “While I live, I trust I shall have my trees, my peaceful idyllic landscapes, my free country life—and while I possess so much, I shall own 100,000 shares in the Bank of Content- ment.” How we love the trees that sheltered our childhood! Some of the finest, sweetest memories of life are there. The tree that we - planted with our own hands many years ago, now strong against winter storms and beautiful in summer sunshine, what a sense of proprietorship and inexpressible comfort we have in it.
“Oh, have you seen on a wayside slope The elms and maples, with branches high, That some one planted, in faith and hope Far back in the silent years gone by?
32 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
“Oh, not in vain there were left in trust To a later age the trees he set; When he who planted is turned to dust, The good that he wrought survives him yet.”
Then plant a tree. Let the children plant trees. Let a day be designated when all Iowa shall plant trees on the public school grounds.
Thirty years ago the legislature enacted, “The board shall cause to be set out and properly protected twelve or more shade trees on each schoolhouse site where such trees are not growing.” If this statute has sometimes been forgotten, it is well to revive the memory of it. How fine it would be if the public generally, especially in the smaller towns and cities, under competent direction, would, with the schools, devote a day to the question of beautifying public parks and grounds.
THe BEAU TYOR GREAT TREES
From a Proclamation by Gov. George W. Clarke.
In an article in The Register and Leader of February 22, 1914, entitled “The Forests of Iowa,” Mr. H. C. Evans, of Des Moines, said: ,
“There is an old elm in the yard of the J. J. Selman home in Bloomfield that is probably the largest tree in the state. The writer has had intimate acquaintance for over fifty years with another old elm a few miles nertheast of Bloomfield. This tree was a monarch of the forest ere the white man set foot on Iowa soil. It was known to the Indian and the wild beast a hundred years before the inde- pendence of our country. It is probably three hundred years old. It reached its splendid proportions through great tribulations, in spite of wind and weather. We have seen its splendid branches whipped almost to the breaking point by terrific winds. It stands so high above ‘surrounding objects that twice it has attracted the light- ning and it is scarred from tip to base. For-.more than seventy years children have found a playground beneath its shade. It has withstood drouths and storms, the rigors of many winters, the as- saults of men and nature—and has not its fellow in beauty and grandeur for miles around. There is majesty and gripping pathos about a great tree. There is mystery about its everlasting silence, its tranquil patience.” sede
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 33
How fine, how great a thing it would be to plant a tree to with- stand the storms and beautify landscapes and shelter and refresh by its shade for centuries. Plant trees on the schoolgrounds of Iowa. Keep a record of the planting—when and by whom—that future generations may call your name blessed. All is for the future. Re- member that and contribute something to make life in the coming years desirable, beautiful, great. Fail not to do so in many ways, but plant trees.
NEED OF RECREATION By Mark Twain, American Humorist and Author.
We walked up and down one of the most popular streets for some time enjoying other people’s comfort and wishing we could export some of it to our restless, driving, vitality-consuming marts at home. Just in this one matter lies the main charm in Europe: comfort. In America, we hurry, which is well; but when the day’s work is done, we go on thinking of losses and gains, we plan for the mor- row, we even carry our business cares to bed with us, and toss and worry over them when we ought to be restoring our racked bodies and brains with sleep. We burn up our energies with this excite- ment and either die early or drop into a mean and lean old age, at a time of life they call a man’s prime in Europe. When an acre of ground has produced long and well, we let it lie fallow and rest for a season; we take no man clear across the continent in the same coach in which he started; the coach is stabled somewhere on the plains and its heated machinery allowed to cool for a few days; when a razor has been long in service and refuses to hold an edge, the barber lays it aside for a few weeks and the edge comes back of its own accord. We bestow thoughtful care upon inanimate ob- jects but none upon ourselves. What a robust people, what a na- tion of thinkers we might be, if we would only lay ourselves on the shelf occassionally and renew our edges.
BEAUTY OF RETURNING SEASONS By Mark Twain, American Humorist and Author.
The land that has four well-defined seasons cannot lack beauty, or pall with monotony. Each season brings a world of enjoyment
and interest in the watching of its unfolding, its gradual, harmonious 3
34 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
development, its culminating traces—and just as one begins to tire of it, it passes away and a radical change comes, with new witch- eries and new glories in its train. And I think that, to one in sym- pathy with Nature, each season, in its turn, seems the loveliest.
No land with an unvarying climate can be very beautiful. The tropics are not, for all the sentiment that is wasted on them. They seem beautiful at first, but sameness impairs the charm by-and-by.— “The Innocents at Home.”
OUR PLAYGROUNDS WITHOUT RIVALS By, Pranklin’ 16. Wane; Secretary ‘ot Interior
To build a railroad, reclaim land, give new impulse to enterprise, and offer new doors to ambitious capital—these are phases of the ever-widening life and activity of this nation. The United States, however, does more; it furnishes playgrounds to the people which are, we may modestly state, without any rivals in the world. Just as the cities are seeing the wisdom and necessity of open spaces for the children, so with a very large view the nation has been saving from its domain the rarest places of grandeur and beauty for the enjoyment of the world.
OUR RICH NATURAL SCENERY By Stephen T. Mather.
This nation is richer in natural scenery of the first order than any other nation; but it does. not know it. It possesses an empire of grandeur and beauty which it scarcely has heard of. It owns the most inspiring playgrounds and the best-equipped native schools in the world and is serenely ignorant of the fact. In its national parks it has neglected because it has quite overlooked, an economic asset of incalculable value—‘‘The National Park Portfolio.”
GIVE BEAUTY TTS ]RIGH TP ULPEACE By Thomas H. Macbride, President State University of Iowa. Iowa once a park of splendor from river to river will be so again when ten million fortunate people, on some future day, shall each give beauty rightful place in the conduct of all successful living. Hail lowa!—Greetings to Iowa Forestry and Conservation Associa- tion.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 35
PRESERVE THE- TREES By John F. Lacey, Congressman.
Now I only speak about this, my friends, because it is a kindred question. It is one of the things that grows out of the agitation of forestry. A man or woman who preserves a tree in a practical way will preserve the things which that tree shelters and produces and that are useful to man. Again, I wish you God-speed, and I hope you will carry with you to every part of the United States the en- thusiasm which you will generate here—the enthusiasm which you will convey to one another—and that you will be a mighty band of missionaries all the way from Portland, Maine, to Portland, Oregon. '—‘“Lacey Memorial Volume,” p. 97.
The United States government tardily recognized the necessity of preserving as public property some of the great wonders of nature. The Yellowstone National Park was the first one of these reserva- tions thus set apart as a national resort. Since then the public lands around the Yosemite have been embraced in a national park. Efforts are being made to save the big trees of California from the saw of the lumberman. Mt. Ranier has become a park and its natural scenery preserved from mutilation—‘‘Lacey Memorial Volume,” p. 207:
Forestry has found some difficulty in attracting attention, be- cause of the assumption that the subject is purely one of sentiment. It is true that sentiment does attach to the preservation of our forests. But the subject is in the highest degree one of practical utility. It is commonly true that there is an ésthetic side to all prac- tical and useful subjects. The poet and the painter may rejoice in the contemplation of the woods. But the farmer, the miller, the boatman, and the lumberman may now combine to preserve as well as to enjoy the beneficial uses of this great element of our national wealth.
A vigorous and healthy forest is the height of nature’s adorn- ment. We have always been sensible to its beauty; we are now deeply concerned in its utility. The forests have always been mod- est in their requirements. All they have asked for has been stand- ing room. Give them but place and they will do their work pa- tiently. Their long arms have reached out for ages and gathered from the air the elements of growth, which they have added to the soil—‘“Lacey Memorial Volume,” p. 88.
36 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
GOD’S GREAT OUT-OF-DOORS By Frederick J. Lazell, Author.
It is indeed a pleasure thus to open the gate while my friend leads us away from the din and rush of the city into “God’s great out-of- doors.” Having walked with him on “Some Winter Days,” one is all the more eager to follow him in the gentler months of spring— that mother season, with its brooding pathos, and its seeds stirring in their sleep as if they dreamed of flowers.
Our guide is at once an expert and a friend, a man of science and a poet. If he should sleep a year, like dear “Old Rip,” he would know, by the calendar of the flowers, what day of the month he awoke. He knows the story of the trees, the arts of insects, the - habits of birds and their parts of speech. His wealth of detail is amazing, but never wearying, and he is happily allusive to the na- ture-lore of the poets, and to the legends and myths of the woodland. —‘Some Spring Days in Iowa.”
The majority of Iowa people still find pleasure in the simple life, still have the love for that which nature so freely bestows. They find time to look upon the beauty of the world. Many a busy man finds his best recreation in the woods and fields. It may be only a few hours each week, but it is enough to keep the music of the flowing ever in his ears and the light of the sunshine in his eyes. It is enough to give the men and the women of the state wholesome views of life, happy hearts and broad sympathies. Some few find in the woods and fields thoughts and feelings which are, to them, almost akin to religion.. If this little book helps such lovers of the out-of-doors ever so little; if it shall help others to see for them selves the beauty and the joy and the goodness of this world 1 which we live, the author will feel that it has been worth while — “Some Summer Days in Iowa,” p. 8.
But one need not go to Concord to find Walden woods and ponds. Had Thoreau lived in Iowa he could have written just as richly, and had Bryant’s home been on the hither side of the Father of Waters he would have sung just as sweetly. By and by some writer with the learning of a naturalist and the soul of a poet shall tell of the beauties in this great garden of Eden which is embraced by two mighty rivers and is filled with the color and perfume of the rarest flowers and the music of the sweetest of the singing birds. Well might the Indians call this state “Ioway, Ioway, beautiful land.”— “Some Autumn Days in Iowa,” pp. 5-6.
Humanity has always turned to nature for relief from toil and
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 37
strife. This was true of the old world; it is much more true of the new, especially in recent years. There is a growing interest in wild things and wild places. The benedicite of the Druid woods, always appreciated by the few, like Lowell, is coming to be understood by the many. There is an increasing desire to get away from the roar and rattle of the streets, away from even the prime formality of suburban avenues and artificial bits of landscape gardening into the panorama of woodland, field, and stream. Men with means are dis- posing of their palatial residences in the city and moving to real homes in the country, where they can see the sunrise and the death of day, hear the rhythm of the rain and the murmur of the wind, and watch the unfolding of the first flowers of spring. Cities are purchasing large parks where the beauties of nature are merely accentuated, not marred. States and the nation are setting big tracts of wilderness where rock and rill, waterfall and canon, mounta‘) and marsh, shell-strewn beach and starry-blossomed brae, flowerful islets and wondrous wooded hills welcome the populace, soothe tired nerves and mend the mind and the morals. These are encouraging signs of the times. At last we are beginning to understand, with Emerson, that he who knows what sweets and virtues are in the ground, the waters, the plants, the heavens, and how to come at these enchantments is the rich and royal man. It is as if some new prophet had arisen in the land, crying, “Ho, everyone that is worn and weary, come ye to the woodlands; and he that hath no money let him feast upon these things which are really rich and abiding.” While we are making New Year resolves let us resolve to spend less time with shams, more with realities; less with dogma, more with sermons in stones; less with erotic novels and baneful jour- nals, more with. the books in the running brooks; listening less readily to gossip and malice, more willing to the tongues in trees; spending more pleasureful hours in the music of bird and breeze, rippling rivers, and laughing leaves; less time with cues and cards and colored comics, more with cloud and star, fish and field, and forest. “The cares that infest the day” shall fall like the burden from Christian’s back as we’ watch the fleecy clouds or the silver stars mirrored in the waveless waters. We shall call the constella- tions by their names and become on speaking terms with the luring voices of the forest fairyland. We shall “thrill with the resurrection called spring,” and steep our senses in the fragrance of the flowers; glory in the gushing life of summer, sigh at the sweet sorrows of autumn, and wax virile in winter’s strength of storm and snow.— “Some Winter Days in Iowa,” pp. 9-11.
PURCHASED OR CONSIDERED AREAS
Backbone Area, Delaware County.
CALVIN, SAMUEL Carr, E. M.
Lees, JAMES H. PAMMEL, L..H. SMALL, Mrs. W. B.
Buckingham Lake, Mills County.
DEAN, SETH PAMMEL, L. H. Uppen, J. A.
Lower Des Moines ‘Area.
Gorpon, C. H. Haran, E. R. PAMMEL, L. H.
Moorehead Caves, Jackson County.
House, Mrs. A. J. Lees, JAMES H. PAMMEL, L. H.
rr
SavacE, E. 1
Wild Cat Den, Muscatine County.
PAMMEL, L. H. REPPERT, FERDINAND UppeN, J. A.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 41
PURCHASED OR CONSIDERED AREAS.
REPORT OF THE BACKBONE AREA. By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
The Devil’s Backbone, in Delaware County in northeastern Iowa, has become somewhat famous because of the geologic investigations made by McGee in his exhaustive memoir on the Pleistocene history of north- eastern Iowa. (Rep. U. S. Geological Survey, 1891:189-577). The earlier work of David Dale Owen in 1839 who made a (Rep. of the Geological Exploration of part of Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota, 1844) report on the mineral lands, soils, timber and rock. Many years later the lamented Dr. S. Calvin made an investigation of the unique topography, geology and fossils of the region. (Iowa Geo. Survey 8:121-192). Dr. Calvin in describing this region says:
“The region in Richland township includes the somewhat noted locality known as the ‘Backbone.’ The Backbone is a high rocky ridge around which the Maquoketa forms a loop. The summit of the ridge rises from 90 to 140 feet above the stream. Its sides are in places precipitous, the rocky cliffs rising sheer for more than 80 feet. Erosion and secular de- cay have carved the rocks into picturesque columns, towers, castles, battlements and flying buttresses. The exposed surfaces are deeply pitted and weather worn. Crevices, widened by protracted chemical action of air and water, are wholly or partly filled with dark brown residual clay or geest. The stream, on each side of the ridge, flows in a deep valley. The ‘Backbone’ with its valleys on the east and west is a bit of Driftless area, and the sections north of the Backbone, namely, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9 and 10, as well as the region to the southeast between the center of section 16 and Forestville, and southward along the river to section 34, constitute a region of loess-Kansan topography.”
The deep valleys of the Richland highland as well as the similar valley of the north Maquoketa resemble canyons of pre-glacial origin.
There is no drift, at least there is none of Iowan age. The exposures occur on hills through which the Maquoketa flows in a gorge 200 feet in depth. The hills rise eighty to one hundred feet above the adjacent por- tions of the Iowan drift plain, and the region is one of many that give very positive indications of the fact that in Delaware county the Iowan ice did not overflow eminences that rose a few score of feet above the gen- eral level. The region is rich in fossils, Dr. Calvin says: “At the Backbone, in section 16 of Richland township, the vertical cliffs, eighty to - ninety feet in height, show the following section:
Feet
4. Pentamerus beds, massive and weathering irregularly.......... 25
3s) Band of :chert, with casts) of Pentamerus.........cecsccccccce 1
POE CULAMOMIS= DOCS, LUGO pINOl 4s -, sila. s costes sie ees eHAPeI vie, civbdlehs. ele crew's 43 1. Massive beds, without Pentamerus, but containing colonies of
Halysites catenulatus and Syringopora tenella................ 20”
Some fifty kinds of fossils have been found in this region. l
42 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Alluvium covers the flat bottom of the valley through which the Maquoketa flows at the Backbone.
The trees and timber of the region are of interest. There are as many species in this small area as in any other similar area in north- eastern Iowa. White pine—the white pine are among the largest and oldest native white pine in the state. I saw a stump there which was nearly four feet in diameter and I should judge that these trees go back to the time when Iowa belonged to France. The Indians protected these trees and why should we not do the same. Common juniper, red cedar, American yew, three poplars—the quaking aspen, large-toothed aspen and cottonwood—. Five species of willow as black willow, almond-leaf willow, prairie willow, pussy willow and dwarf-gray willow. Of the oaks the following are: Chestnut, bur, red, white, quercitron and barren. Some of the old oaks, perhaps one hundred and fifty years old are still standing. It is the fervent desire of scientists that they be preserved. The blue beech, ironwood and paper birch occur. Of the nut bearing trees, the butternut, black walnut, shell-bark hickory, pig-nut and hazel- nut. The sycamore also occurs. This is a very rare tree in northern Iowa. There are three elms, the American, slippery, cork or rock elms, also the hackberry, the leatherwood—a beautiful early, blooming shrub with numerous yellow flowers also occur. The common elder, abundant and the less common red berried elder, the high bush cranberry, arrow- wood and snowberry, and two honeysuckles are interesting shrubs found in this region. There are four dog-woods—the rare round leaved dog- wood, silky cornel, red osier and the alternate-leaved dogwood is abundant over the hills. There are three species of goosberries and wild currants. The prickly and smooth gooseberry and the wild black currant.
The Rose family is represented by the common red raspberry, wild white rose, wild crab and five species of wild red haws and the service berry. Wild black cherry, choke cherry and pin cherry, the wild plum and nine bark. The honey-locust, coffee-bean, and the false indigo are common in this region.
There are three species of sumac—the poison ivy, the beautiful stag- horn sumac and the common sumac.
There are some very fine specimens and many of them of hard maples or the black maple and the common hard maple, the silver maple and the boxelder.
The bladdernut is also frequent. The Virginia creeper and wild grape found everywhere as is the climbing bitter sweet; there are also many specimens of the burning bush or wahoo.
The prickly ash is distributed everywhere along this stream.
There are fine specimens of the basswood.
The walking-leaf fern, spleenwort, maiden hair fern and bracken are common in this region.
Of other herbaceous plants, mention may be made of the moccasin flower, trillium, Jack-in-the-pulpit, violets, spring beauty and other bia are abundant.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA ko
THE BACKBONE OF DELAWARE COUNTY. By James H. Lees, Geologist.
Just now, when friends of conservation in Iowa are interested in the purchase of the land adjacent to the Backbone, in Delaware county, they may welcome some statements regarding the physical features of a re- gion which is remarkable, alike in its own character and in its relation to the surrounding county. The Backbone region is a rugged island rising out of the gently swelling sea of the Iowa prairie. It is a bit of the “oldland” which elsewhere is hidden by the mantle of the newer glacial drift. Amid its deep valleys and precipitous cliffs one imagines himself, and rightly, in a land ‘of ten thousand centuries. Clambering to the level of the nearby upland he looks over a plain which has been barely touched by the graving tools of Nature,
Geographically the Backbone is situated almost in the center of Rich- land, the northwestern township of Delaware county. It is thus in close proximity to four counties, Delaware, Buchanan, Fayette and Clayton. Its location makes it easy of access from numerous towns and villages round about—Manchester, Strawberry Point, Independence, Oelwein, Fayette, West Union—from these and many others it is within easy reach, a feature which adds much to its desirability and utility. As in- dicated before, although it is surrounded by the nearly level or gently rolling prairie so characteristic of Iowa, the Backbone region itself is exceedingly rugged and rough—a bit of the driftless area. The Back- bone proper is a long narrow ridge lying within a loop of Maquoketa river, which bends back upon itself to the north for a distance of half a mile or more and then, again making a turn to the southeast, resumes its normal course. Above the waters of the stream the rocky cliffs rise vertically to heights of eighty to a hundred feet, while the more distant hills stand sixty to a hundred feet still higher. The rock walls of the valley are dotted and surmounted by occasional clumps of the rare white pine or the red cedar, which seem to seek the most barren spots for their foothold. The level flood plain with its carpet of grass and the grateful shade of its forest covering offers a tempting resting place for tourist or camper. If one wishes to climb to the summit of the Backbone, an easy path offers itself or the more venturesome may ascend the “stairway” a great crevice in the rocks, widened through the ages by solution and de- cay, until now it affords a dizzy passage for the clear of head and strong of limb. From long exposure to the forces of Nature the rocks have been carved into towers and columns and battlements and all the picturesque forms which such materials assume under the touch of Time.
To the student and lover of nature, the history through which a re- gion has passed is always interesting and enlightening. One learns to appreciate more fully scenic features through a knowledge of the pro- cesses and vicissitudes by which they have attained their present forms. So we may well afford to look back into the past and see the evolution of the Backbone with its contiguous territory. We shall see it eons ago as it lay beneath the Silurian sea and was being built up by the slow ac- cumulation of the beds of limestone which now forms its mass and out of which the river gorge has been cut. On the sea floor were multitudes
44 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
of the life forms of the time, forms which dying left their shells on the bottom and in the muds beneath. These shells and their casts today bear clear witness to the abundance of the life of those days, as the ac- companying figure shows. When we realize that these types persisted so long that their fossil remains are found through sixty feet of lime- stone we can understand what hosts there must have been.
Once and again in all probability the seas covered our area, but the materials which were spread over their floors have long since been swept away, at least from the particular region with which we are now con- cerned. Rocks of the Devonian period are present in southwestern Dela- ware and the southwest half of Buchanan counties, and unquestionably they once extended much farther to the northeast. Whether the seas of Mississippian or later ages advanced thus far to the northeast we do not know. However, for age upon age, northeastern Iowa, as a part of a great central land-mass, lay exposed to all the destructive forces of na- ture until its once level plains were dissected into deep valleys and high hills. Then the great Nebraskan continental glacier advanced from the north, crept over these hilis and valleys and buried them beneath its load of debris. In time the long winter merged into spring, the ice cap disappeared and vegetation covered the bare gray plains. After a long in- terval a second glacier, the Kansan, gathered its forces in the far north and again covered valley and hill and plain with its icy mantle, and, melt- ing away in turn, left its load of glacial drift spread over all the invaded lands. Upon these filled up and leveled off plains young streams at once set to work and in time cut a new series of valleys, very largely if not entirely independent of former systems of drainage.
The third glacier of the series, the Illinoian, did not reach the Back- bone region, but the fourth one, the Iowan, coming from the northwest, extended beyond the Backbone and across most of Delaware county. A remarkable feature of this glacier was that it seemed to have avoided cer- tain areas in its path, as is evident by the absence from them of any drift of lowan age. The Backbone is in one of these areas and so it is that while all about are smooth gentle slopes and shallow swales. of the Iowan area, within the Backbone region itself are the deep-cut valleys and vertical rock-walled cliffs of the Kansan drift area and of the Driftless area to the northeast. The reason for these anomalous conditions probably lies in the fact that the Backbone region rises above the Surrounding country, that while its hills and ridges reach heights of 1,150 to 1,200 feet above sea level, in the country round about similar altitudes are not reached for several miles distant to the north and northwest. Thus the Iowan glacier, which carried only a light load of debris, and which probably was itself but a thin sheet of ice, was unable to surmount these outstanding prominences and never covered them with its veneer of mingled clay and gravel. However, there was laid down over these rugged hills a layer of fine wind-blown dust known as loess which covers but does not con- ceal the topography of an older time.
The question naturally arises as to the reason for this great loop in the river which causes the Backbone. The most probable answer seems to be that when drainage began on the level Kansan drift plain its: course
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 45
was formed without reference to the solid rock beneath the drift cover- ing but was determined entirely by the features of the surface. In the case of Maquoketa river these features forced the stream over a buried pre-Kansan hill of rock where the Backbone is now located. Some irreg- ularities in the region, either on the surface of the Kansan drift plain, or which seems less likely, in the rock surface after the stream had cut down to it caused the river to assume a sharply winding course and these windings have doubtless been accentuated with the development of the valley. The Iowan drift was so thin that it could not entirely conceal the valleys which it occupied and hence after the retreat of the Iowan ice the Maquoketa may have resumed its former course across the Iowan plain and through the Backbone region. Of course the possibility must be kept in mind that the valley may date from post-Nebraskan time, but there seems to be no definite evidence in regard to this. Both above the Backbone region and below it the river is flowing through a broad, shallow drift-covered sag valley, which is in striking contrast with the deep rock- cut canyon that so nearly surrounds the Backbone. This beautiful spot, charming alike in its contrasts and in its many picturesque features, stands as perpetual testimony to the effectiveness of the geologic forces and the variety of the geologic activities which have been engaged in its sculpturing and completion for our enjoyment and benefit.
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT OF THE DEVIL’S BACKBONE.
By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
In my visit to the Devil's Backbone last fall and in December it was impossible for me to entirely cover the area and thus comment on all of the desirble features of the area. The matter of purchasing the land has certainly been put in the hands of a most trustworthy man, Mr. Hoyt, who not only knows every foot of the land but the many springs and de- sirable features. He has performed his duties in an eminently and highly satisfactory way. When the land is too high three appraisers, Senator Newberry, of Strawberry Point, Judge Dunham, of Manchester, and Mr. Abbott, of Lamont, have appraised the land. The eminent fairness of these men and their good judgment puts the matter in such shape that the state will be greatly benefitted by their wise judgment.
A point not brought out in previous reports is the accessibility of the park to the people of Lamont, 4% miles; Strawberry Point, 3 miles; Manchester, 14 miles. The acquiring of the large spring on the spring branch of the Maquoketa river and the adjacent bluffy land will prove to have been a very wise plan-on the part of the Conservation Board and Executive Council. The water of the spring is about the same during the entire year and of the same temperature winter and summer, clear, sparkling water coming out at the base of a limestone outcrop. The bluffs on both sides of the stream are well wooded. Some of the original trees of white, red, bur and barren oak, white pine, red cedar, hard maple, hackberry, basswood, ash, hickory still hardy, although much of this is of second growth trees of oak, maple, basswood, red cedar, white, slip- pery and corky elm and bark elm. The steep rocky bluffs in some places
46 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
are covered with ground hemlock or yew and ironwood, blue beech and red cedar. It is interesting to note that a white oak, two feet in diameter was 96 years old or that it was a seedling during the period of Long’s exploring expedition. We were also able to count the annual rings on two white pine stumps cut a few years ago. The diameter of the first tree was 3 feet 2 inches. This was a seedling during the revolutionary war. A second tree was 140 years old, therefore a seedling during the revolutionary war. The diameter of this tree was 3 feet 4 inches. These trees stood on one of the banks of Spring Branch. There are other trees equally as large on the Maquoketa. The diameter of one of them was 3 feet, 3 inches, and it was 60 feet high. There are a few trees with a slightly greater diameter, and perhaps 75 feet high. A rough estimate places the white pine trees left standing at 200. They add a charm to the whole region. Of course, there are hundreds of quaking aspen and large-toothed aspen. One of the fallen large-toothed aspen, (poplar), was 52 feet long. This tree is as common as the quaking aspen. The area also contains thousands of red cedar, white and red oak, basswoods, slippery elms, bur oaks and a few chestnut oaks. The woods were cov- ered with a fine display of spring flowers, anemone, rue anemone, blue and yellow violets, columbine, lungworts, Saint Jacobs ladder, sweet williams, hepatica, blood roots, dutchman’s breeches, painted cup, louse- wort, everlasting wild ginger. The list of plants collected by me is ap- pended herewith.
Ulmus racemosa, Corky bark elm. Phlox divaricata, Sweet William. Amelanchier canadensis, Service berry. Carpinus americana, Blue beech.
Ribes gracile, Smooth gooseberry.
Ribes cynosbati, Prickly gooseberry. Ribes floridum, Black currant. Sanguinaria canadensis, Blood root.
Salix cordata, Pussy willow.
Trillium erectum var declinatum, Trillium. Viola cucullata, Blue violet.
Viola pubescens, Yellow violet.
Rhus typhina, Staghorn sumach. Juniperus virginiana, Red cedar. Asarum canadense, Wild ginger.
Taxus baccata, Yew.
Ostrya virginica, Ironwood.
Anemone nemerosa, Wind flower. Polemonium reptans, Saint Jacob’s ladder. Claytonia virginica, Spring beauty. Anemonella thalictroides, Rue anemone Mitella diphylla, Bishop’s cap.
Luzula campestris, Rush.
Prunus americana, Wild plum.
Castillea coccinea, Paint brush.
Dicentra cucullaria, Dutchman’s breeches. Isopyrum biternatum, False rue anemone. Pyrola secunda, Shin leaf.
Hepatica auctiloba, Hepatica.
Arabis laevigata, Mustard.
Populus grandidentata, Large toothed aspen. Uvularia grandiflora, Bellwort.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA AT
Might I suggest that during the summer plans should be made for a road leading to the park from the Lamont and Manchester side of the park; also that before next summer we should make arrangements with Professor G. B. MacDonald to reforest the depleted area with native species. I noticed in some places young white pines are coming up, showing that when given a chance native species will recover the ground.
GEOLOGY OF DELAWARE COUNTY. By Samuel Calvin, Geologist.
Inside the Iowan area, and surrounded on all sides by Iowan drift, are two anomalous regions that seem not to have been invaded by lowan ice. One of the regions occupies the central part of Richland township and may be called the Richland highlands. The other embraces three-fourths of Delhi township, and parts of Milo, North Fork, South Fork and Union townships and may for convenience of reference be named the Delhi plateau. The regions in question seem to have been islands in the midst of the Iowan glacial sea. At all events they contain no Iowan drift. The topography is erosional, partly resembling the loess Kansan type, partly that of the driftless area. Except in the stream valleys the sur- face is on the average higher than that of the Iowan drift plain, the dif- ference in elevation ranging from forty to more than a hundred feet. Both areas are traversed by the Maquoketa river. In each there are heavy bodies of loess exhibiting the rounded hills, steep slopes and sharp val- leys that result from erosion of this peculiar deposit. In each there are spaces, free from both loess and drift, in which steep rocky cliffs, isolated towers, and all other features of driftless area topography are character- istically developed.
The region in Richland township includes the somewhat noted locality, the “Backbone.” The “Backbone” is a high rocky ridge around which the Maquoketa forms a loop. The summit of the ridge rises from 90 to 140 feet above the stream. Its sides are in places precipitous, the rocky cliffs rising sheer for more than 80 feet. Erosin and secular decay have carved the rocks into picturesque columns, towers, castles, battlements and flying buttresses. The exposed surfaces are deeply pitted and weather worn. Crevices, widened by protracted chemical action of air and water, are wholly or partly filled with dark brown residual clay or geest. The stream, on each side of the ridge, flows in a deep valley. The “Backbone” with its valleys on the east and west is a bit of Driftless area, and the sections north of the “Backbone,” namely 3, 4, 5, 8, 9 and 10, as well as the region to the southeast between the centre of section 16 and Forestville, and southward along the river to section 34, constitute a region of loess Kansan topography.
Between the south end of the area just described and the southeast quarter of section 4 of Milo township, the Maquoketa flows through the Iowan drift plain, in a valley but little depressed below the general level of the country. In the northern part of Milo township, the river enters the second of the anomalous areas, and in doing so it turns away from a low drift plain to cleave its way through an area that rises from eighty to a hundred feet higher than that from which it turned aside. These
48 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
areas of anomolous topography afford illustrations of McGee’s anomalous rivers. In section 5, where the stream crosses the north line of Milo town- ship, the river channel is but a shallow trough in Iowan drift, and the drift plain, with little change of level, extends for many miles toward the south. In the east part of section 9 of the same township the stream flows in an old rock-walled valley of erosion approximately 200 feet in depth. The gradient of the stream is not perceptibly changed, the greater depth of the valley being due to the increase in altitude of the general surface in passing from the first to the second point mentioned.
With one or two unimportant exceptions, the Maquoketa flows in a comparatively deep canyon all the way from sections 9 of Milo township to the south line of Delaware county. At Hartwick, in section thirty of Delhi township, the valley is 190 feet in depth, and at Fleming’s mill, a mile east of Hartwick, the depth is 215 feet. In Delhi township and in the northern part of Union the stream valley is cut through a plateau and not through a ridge, as is usua] with other anomalous rivers. The pleateau has an extreme width of about ten miles, extending from section 23 of Milo township to section 21 of North Fork, and embracing in its eastern margin the valley of Plum creek. Loess hills all around its bor- der rise sixty to eighty feet above the adjacent drift plain, and through- out its entire area of about sixty-five square miles the topography is erosial. Loess hills predominate, but there are some areas covered with sand, and in some places weathered crags of Niagara limestone control the character of the topographic forms.—Geological Survey, Annual Re- port, Vol. VIII, p. 132-134, 1907.
THE BACKBONE. By E. M. Carr, Editor and Lawyer.
Scholarly geologists and noted writers have vied with each other in describing the charming bit of Iowa topography, located in Delaware County and widely known as the “Backbone.”
This noted place has a higher altitude than other locality in eastern Iowa. During the glacial period the “Backbone” stood up like an island in the midst of an ocean of ice. Its surface and the surface of the ad- jacent valleys are free from any trace of Iowan drift.
The view from the highest part of the ridge down the Maquoketa valley for twenty-five or thirty miles has few equals anywhere. It is pleasing and inspiring to see how the gateways of the prairies open to let the river come out.
The tourist who visits Virginia is told that he should not return home until he has seen the Piedmont valley near Afton, a valley no more in- viting or beautiful to behold than the Maquoketa valley when viewed from the culminating point of the “Backbone.”
The “Backbone’ ridge extends nearly north and south for a distance of about 200 rods. The river runs down on the west side, turns around the south end and flows back along the east side.
The narrowest point of the ridge is about midway between its ex-
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 49
tremes. There the summit is restricted to a few yards, and the cliffs on each side have a sheer descent of fifty or sixty feet.
The part of the ridge where the stone walls are most precipitous is not more than 100 feet in height, but upwards of another 100 feet are added by a gradual rise to the northern end. There the river turns away and its waters sparkle as they flow onward about two hundred feet be- low the summit.
From the crest of the ridge the ground decends abruptly on each side, and where the cliffs are perpendicular, or nearly so, they are carved by processes of erosion and secular decay “into picturesque columns, towers. castles, battlements and flying buttresses.” (See Iowa Geological Survey, Vol. 8, page 132.)
The charm of these gray stone cliffs could not be increased by an in- crease in their height. Their scale is sufficiently heroic, and their de- tails sufficiently bold and rugged to readily difference them from all com- mon place scenery.
The faces of the cliffs are half hidden by trees, clustering foliage and creeping vines that turn to flame with the first nipping frost of the autumn.
The ridge is crowned with trees. Tall tapering pines, some of the last of their species, there contending for existence with the more hardy elms, oaks and maples. The southern portion of the ridge is broad and comparatively level. This small plateau is covered with many varieties of trees, so clustered and arranged that it would be difficult for art to equal their restful charm.
The Maquoketa in the vicinity of the “Backbone” is a spring fed stream. It flows over clean washed sand and gravel and its depths af- ford good trout and black bass fishing.
But best of all are the pure waters which flow from the several springs at the “Backbone.” An elderly gentleman in poor health, who resided near Independence was known to earnestly contend that many years had been added to his life by his camping annually in the valley on the west side of the “Backbone,” and drinking the water from one of the springs in the vicinity. There may have been some foundation for the elderly gentleman’s contention, for that valley is an exceptional place. The fol- lowing is an extract from page 169, Vol. 8, Iowa Geological Survey:
“In a sort of terrace at the bottom of the valley on the west side of the ‘Backbone’ in section 16, weather-stained beds of the Buchanan stage oc- cur under beds of sand and gravel of more recent origin, the contrast between the older and newer portions of the terrace being very striking. The valley here is older than the Buchanan stage, older than the Kansan.”
It is, however, quite probable that the environment contributed more largely than the water to this invalid’s improvement in health.
There are no marsh lands near the “Backbone.” It is surrounded by primeval forests where the thousand voices of nature soothe the senses and help to restore overtaxed nerves. At night he was lulled to sleep by the whisperings of the pine trees, and in the morning he doubtless forgot his cares and infirmities while watching the long high ridge curve its dark green back in the rising sun.
“4
50 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Speaking of public parks in country as well as city, Prof. Thos. H. Macbride, at one time president of the Iowa State University, made the following reference to the “Backbone”:
“The country people need the park just as much as the town folk and if they ask for it they will get it. There are plenty of bits of natural scenery and all that is needed is intelligent care and devotion to public use. Take for instance the Backbone in Delaware County, a long narrow ridge of limestone rock, ninety feet in height, washed on three sides by the clear waters and its crest crowned with a grove of native pines, be- neath whose shadows rise perennial springs—what more can you wish?
“Chicago covets her bit of sand yonder; for the Backbone, Chicago would pay a million dollars, and would make it cost two millions more all for the pleasure of her people; and yet the good people of Delaware and Buchanan counties have not yet found out a way to preserve for themselves and their children this lovely natural park.”
Doubtless there are writers who could better describe this Delaware
county natural park than Samuel Calvin, but doubtless no one ever did. ’ Here is an extract from a quite lengthy illustrated article that was writ- ten by him and published in the July, 1896 number of the Midland Monthly:
“The ‘Backbone’ is a fragment of unique topography that, like the Driftless Area, preserve the characteristics of the pre-glacial surface of the State. In fact, it is itself a driftless area, though rather small. The regions all around it are deeply covered with glacial deposits, but no drift is found upon the ridge or in the adjacent valleys. The integrity of the limestone towers and other erosive forms that would easily be toppled over are inconsistent with movements of glacier ice. The old ice sheet, for some reason, failed to spread its mantle of detritus over this region, and it is to this failure that citizens of the fertile midland are indebted for the preservation of the features on which depends its strange power of exciting in all intelligent visitors the sense of surprised delight. The beauty, the seclusion, the attractiveness of the place, are certain to be appreciated more and more as the years go by, provided short-sighted, unaesthetic avarice does not transform its forest land into pastures, or does not attempt to “improve” it for the sake of converting it into a profitable summer resort. If it can only be let alone, it will remain a source of purest pleasure, to be particularly enjoyed by the tired worker, who has learned that occasional outings, where one may have direct con- tact with woods and ricks as Narute left them, are the most effective means for relaxation from the mental strain consequent on the condi-. tions under which work of every kind must now be performed. These weather-beaten cliffs, the difficult and lonely paths, the odorous pines in which the breezes make perpetual music, tend to refresh and reinvigorate both mind and body, provided only, one is in sympathy with Nature un- improved by art, modestly picturesque.”
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 51
A NATURAL PARK SITE. By Mrs. W. B. Small.
On different occasions during past years, I had heard Independence friends refer to excursions made to an interesting spot not-far distant known as “The Devil’s Backbone.” From a meager description of the place, my mind had conjured up an immense, smooth, almost “‘unscalable” boulder which was curious but not beautiful. I had felt a curiosity con- cerning this “freak of nature,’ as I supposed it to be, and welcomed with delight the opportunity to visit the locality.
We found the place in question to be located four or five miles south of Strawberry Point, and not on a main traveled road; but the trail leads through fields and up rough hills, and finally on to a high peninsula which is encircled by the Maquoketa river. The open space on the summit of this point of land makes a beautiful picnicing ground, and the lover of nature rejoices to see that this retreat is unspoiled by the hand of man; it is too far from the city and too inaccessible to attract the pop-corn vender or the summer resort proprietor. While our lunch was in course of preparation, some one discovered the trail to a spring of water and he also reported marvelous examples of erosion to be seen in the descent of the rocky hillside. In our further explorations on both sides of the tableland, we found delightful surprises and there was a continuous suc- cession of “ohs” and “ahs” from different members of the party. By the action of the water, great portions of rock have become detached from the main promontory, and these “detachments” have taken fascinating shapes, so that we found caves, rooms, and all sorts of enchanting nooks— topped by trees and edged with ferns and hairbells. The climax was reached in the eastern descent to the river; here, Nature has set aside a block of stone, and deftly chiseled a charming and complete room, where one can enter through the doorway and sit, as in a balcony, looking from the window upon the scene below. Tiny ferns and blos- soms decorate the roof, and a delicate vine trails past a bird’s nest on the ledge above the doorway. Perched upon the hillside, high above the river, it reminds one of a tiny Swiss chalet, which might fittingly be called ‘‘Sylvia’s retreat.” In our prairie state, it is a distinct surprise to find such rocky promontories of seventy-five or a hundred feet in height and it is devoutly to be hoped that this paradise of the geologist and botanist may be preserved as a playground for Iowa’s people.—lIowa Conservation, Vol. II, No. 1, p. 11.
PROPOSED PARK AT BUCKINGHAM LAKE. By Seth Dean.
I take it for granted that the head of every family is in favor of public parks as play grounds, but there may be honest difference of opinion about what is required to make a satisfactory park, but using my own judgment in selecting a suitable location the following considerations should be fac- tors in influencing my action, viz.:
A tract well removed from the business centers, having a permanent lake or where a generous pond of fresh water can be deepened and en-
52 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
larged if necessary to furnish boating and fishing pastime, bordered on at least two sides by a level beach or shore tract of sufficient area for street and cottages and other necessary concessionaries.
Adjoining this level land should be a larger tract of hilly or rougher land that preferably should be partly forested and from the hilltops have a panoramic view of landscape stretching as a vista several miles, the more the better in different directions, and if natural springs or a permanent watercourse passes through or alongside this tract so much the better.
The tract must be in a healthy locality and must be conveniently ac- cessible by rail, and by auto over the usual public highway system of the county. It should be so located that there is a sufficiently dense popula- tion that will be patrons to warrant the expenditure of a sum of money to purchase and put the tract in creditable shape in the first instance, and to provide sufficient revenue to maintain the park atter it shall have been opened to the public.
In presenting for your consideration the advantages of the Bucking- ham Lake tract located in Mills but bordering on the line between Mills
and Fremont counties, I am showing you a tract that possesses all the ©
factors of desirability I have set out in the opening paragraph.
Consider first a lake bed of some 160 acres, originally part of the Mis- souri river but left a lake by a change in the river channel; this bed will require considerable dredging to create permanent depth of water suf- ficient to remain pure and healthy through the hot weather season and avoid freezing to the bottom in severe winters. Suflicient volume of flow from permanent springs will furnish water for the lake.
Bordering the lake on the north and east is flat land of sufficient area for cottages, boat and bath houses, and the usual concessions.
Bordering the lake on the north and east are the Missouri river bluffs, partly deforested, rising from the bottom land to heights of 150 to 300 feet, with some steep, almost perpendicular face slopes and others more gentle, affording light mountain climbing to visitors seeking exercise. From the top of these peaks fine views are obtained extending from five to twenty miles in different directions, of hills and valleys, woods and farm lands, several towns and the Missouri river flood plain (2% to 6 miles wide with an occasional glimpse of the river water.)
The area available for park purposes in this vicinity is practically un- limited. I have had in mind a park covering about one thousand acres, but it could easily be increased to double or four times that area and at this time prevailing prices for land in this locality are not high.
J ,
NOTES ON BUCKINGHAM LAKE AREA: By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
In making a brief report on this region, let us consider the region from the following aspects:
1. Its value from a scientific point of view. The historic aspects.
2. 8. The needs of the region from the recreational standpoint.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 53
The region under consideration is similar from Hamburg to Sioux City, the steep hills, narrow valleys rising from the wide flood plains of the Missouri with its alluvial deposits and here and there sand dunes and small ancient channels of the stream, all of these a peculiar part of the region. The width of the flood plain varies from a little over two miles near Buckingham lake to more than ten miles in some places in the great valley. For much of the region the bottoms are located on the Iowa side of the river. No similar expanse in the United States con- tains so large an area of flat and extremely fertile agricultural soil. It is the only part of the southwestern part of Iowa where the corn crop was good this year. These bottoms, originally, contained a large num- ber of wild grasses like slough grass, tall blue stem, switch grass, etc. In the early days the whole region was a waving mass of wild grasses, as high as a horse, the paradise of the stockman. It was here where, in yet earlier days, previous to white settlements that the buffalo occurred in vast herds feeding on these nutritious grasses.
The region between Hamburg and Sioux City presents a series of bluffs which are unique in the topography of the country. They occur to the south in Missouri, gradually becoming less marked. They are also quite conspicuous in Nebraska, but in many cases less marked. There are only a few places in the world where this typical Missouri loess is so developed. Its value for agricultural purposes has long been recog- nized. The apples and grapes grown in the region are famous and these crops have given fame to the region. The typical deposit of the region is known as Missouri loess which geologists like Calvin, Shimek and others tell us is a wind borne soil, the fine material coming from the west. This region is a classic one in the study of the fauna found in the loess. Certainly from a scientific standpoint some of this area should be set aside for future generations. There is no better place to be found for a study of the fauna and of the soil than the Buckingham area in Fremont and Mills counties.
The plants of the tops of these loess bluffs are unique. They belong to the region west of the one hundredth meridian. Let me enumerate a few; the wiry drop seed grass, mesquite grass, Rocky mountain bee plant, small blue stem, snow on the mountain, stemless loco weed, the large blue flowered beard tongue, the Spanish bayonet or yucca, gum weed or grindelia, aplopappus, perennial ragweed, rush milkweed, milk vetch, two species of dalea, false mallow and the callirhoe.
From the standpoint of the geographical distribution of plants there is no region in Iowa that presents such a sharp contrast between plains and prairie plants as this region. Standing on the tops of these hills a person feels that he is in the region of North Platte or McCook, Nebraska. You are surrounded by the fauna and flora of that region. There are comparatively few areas in the region in which there is any considerable body of timber. The dry winds of the summer greatly influence the growth of trees. The west and southwest slopes of the hills are entirely devoid of timber, while the east and north slopes contain the following trees: Basswood, red oak and black oak, honey locust, slippery elm, hackberry, cottonwood, iron wood, American elm, red bud, coffee bean,
54 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
box elder and soft maple. There are also such shrubs as coral berry, snowberry, sumach, wild grape, poison ivy, Virginia creeper and staff tree.
One of the most interesting places in the region is Happy Hollow, wesi of Tabor, the small stream emptying into Buckingham lake. This is a narrow canyon with steep slopes covered with trees and herbaceous plants. It is an interesting place and is worthy of preservation. The lower parts of the hills facing the Missouri here have an outcrop of limestone, which became exposed when the Platte river forced the Missouri to skirt the bluffs on the Iowa side of the river. This limestone is rich in fossils. A considerable area, five or six miles, has this limestone rock exposed. There are few places along the Missouri river from Hamburg to the Big Sioux river where limestone is thus exposed. \Nature has done here ona large scale what the human hand could not do. A number of interesting plants occur on these limestone rocks, like ferns, violets, spring beauty, ete. The lover of plants will always delight to roam over these rocky woods.
The Buckingham Lake is on the flat immediately adjacent to the hills. It once covered a much larger area but owing to the silt carried from the hills, has been filled up. With a little dredging work and diverting the channel, a nice little lake, covering between 40 and 50 acres, may be made and such a lake is urgently needed by the people of the region.
Not much can be said about the historic aspects of the region. Some things, however, may be noted. There are a series of fine Indian mounds on the crest of one of the hills and correspond to some mounds on an-. other hill in Nebraska. There are numerous old Indian trails over the hills. There is also much evidence of old buffalo trails, which later were used by cattle. Mr. Harlan and Seth Dean will give this matter more in detail.
We must provide the region with some recreation places. I am told that the people of Glenwood, Hamburg and other points, if they want a little boating must go to Council Bluffs. These people are entitled to some consideration and we should provide, not only the unique hills and wooded canyons, but a lake where the family can spend a day in recrea- tion. Southwestern Iowa is not provided with beautiful and scenic places, such as we have in northeastern Iowa or in the lake region. There are many places in the state that far surpass the Buckingham region in beauty, but none surpass it in scientific interest. The proposed state park in the region can be made really beautiful while nature has not given the native material, except the hills and canons. Man can so provide and improve it in places as to make it worth while. We must bear in mind that thousands of persons live in the region, who really do not have an op- portunity of going elsewhere. We need some uplifting force for this community. The area to be included in this state park should be not less than 1,200 acres, which would include Buckingham lake, the wooded ravines, the loess bluffs and the limestone out crops.
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 55
THE LOESS AREA OF WESTERN IOWA. By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
The loess mounds though made of a tenacious clay show no springs or running water anywhere except in the wooded cannons at the base of the hills. The vegetation from early spring to fall is a succession of bloom, beginning with such plants as: pasque flower (Anemone patens var Nut- tallians) paint brush (Castilleia sessiliflora), puccoon (Lithospermum angustifolium) stemless loco (Oxytropis Lambertii) hairy puccoon (Litho- spermum caneuscens).
Another common plant over the hillside is Bastard toad flax (Comandra umbellata). Three weeks later the most conspicuous plant over the loess mound is snowberry (Symphoricarpos occidentalis) which is most abund- ant near the timber line, encroaching upon the mounds. The snowberry is a forerunner of shrubs and trees at the edge of the loess mounds. Along with it, frequently in great abundance, is the hoary vervain (Ver- bena stricta) and the pomme de terre (Psoralea argophylla), the latter with long roots. The milk rush (Lygodesmia juncea) a typical xerophytic plant, is extremely common, occurring not only in the vertical clay banks but over the entire mound.
Near the tops of the mounds Aplopappus (Aplopappus spinulosus) forms broad masses. Quite widely distributed over these loess mounds we have the dalea (Dalea laxiflora and the D. alopecuroides), the for- mer, with roots several feet long is particularly well adapted to xerophytic conditions, the small teretish leaves make it admirably fitted for the conditions existing upon the mounds. Along with it we find the prairie clover (Petalostemon multiflorus) both belonging to the typical plants of the plains of Nebraska and Colorado.
Of the early composite flowering plants upon the loess mounds the purple coneflower (EHchinacea angustifolia) and black-eyed susan (Rude- beckia hirta) are more or less common over the entire loess mounds. The ox-eye (Heliopsis scabra) is common on the borders along with the snowberry (Symphoricarpos), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus) and ver- vain. (Verbena).
A partial list of the plants of the Loess Bluffs and their origin.
W—Western.
S—Southern.
E—Eastern.
Aplopappus (Aplopappus spinulosus) (W) Milk rush (Lygodesmia juncea) (W)
Iron weed (Vernonia Neveboracensis) (S) Boneset (Hupatorium serotinum) (S) Orange boneset (Kuhnia ewpdtorioides) (E) Blazing star (Liatris punctata) (W)
Gum weed (Grindelia squarrosa) (W) Golden rod (Solidago speciosa) (E)
Golden rod (Solidago rupestris) (W)
Golden rod (Solidago rigida) (E)
Aster (Aster oblongifolius) (EB)
Aster (Aster sericeus) (E)
Aster (Aster multitlorus) (E)
Everlasting (Antennaria plantaginifolia) (EB) Compass plant (Silphium laciniatum) (E & S)
56
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
Marsh elder (Iva xanthiifolia) (W)
Perennial ragweed (Ambrosia psilostachya) (W) Purple cone flower (Echinacea angustifolia) (E & S) Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) (W)
Prairie cone flower (Lepachys pinnata) (W) Prairie sun flower (Helianthus Maximiliani) (W) Coreopsis (Coreopsis palmata)
Fetid marigold (Dysodia chrysanthemoides) (W) Western thistle (Cirsium canescens) (W)
Rocky Mountain bee plant (Cleome integrifolia) (W) Mallow (Callirhoe involucrata) (W)
Flax (Linum rigidum) (W)
Wild clover (Trifolium stoloniferwm) (W)
Dalea (Dalea laxiflora) (W)
Missouri golden rod (Solidago Missouriensis) (W) Whorled milkweed (Asclepias' tuberosa)
Horse mint (Monarda fistulosa) (W & E)
Pomm de Terre (Psoralea argophulla) (W)
Silky Psoralea (Psoralea argophylla) (W)
Hedge mustard (Sisymbrium canescens) (W & E) Field sorrel (Oxalis corniculata) (E)
Prairie clover (Petalostemon violaceum) (W) Stemless Loco weed (Oxytropis Lambertii) (W) Partridge pea (Cassia Chamaecrista) (W & E) Snowberry (Symphoricarpos occidentalis) (W) Flea bane (Hrigeron stringosus) (EK & W)
Sun flower (Helianthus rigidus) (W)
Prairie dandelion (Troximon cuspidatum) (W) Wild four o’clock (Oxybaphus hirsutus) (W) Spurge (Huphorbia maculata)
Spurge (Huphorbia hexagona)
Spurge (Euphorbia heterophylla)
Canadian blue grass (Poa compressa) (E)
Prairie grass (Panicum Wilcoxianum) (W)
Low blue joint (Andropogon scoparius) (W)
Sand grass (Calamovilfa longifolia)
Blue lettuce (Lactuca pulchella) (W)
Lobelia (Lobelia spicata) (E)
Whorled milk weed (Asclepias verticillata) (western form) Milk weed (Acerates viridiflora)
Sweet William (Phlox pilosa) (E)
Hairy puccoon (Lithospermum canenscens) (FE)
Puccoon (Lithospermum angustifolium) (E)
Beard tongue (Pentstemon grandiflorus) (E)
Paint brush (Castilleia sessiliflora)
Hoary vervain (Verbena stricta) (W)
Mint (Hedeoma hispida) (W) ;
Blue sage (Salvia lanceolata) (W)
Skull cap (Scutellaria parvula) (W)
Wild four o’clock (Oxybaphus angustifolius) (W) Slender door yard knot weed (Polygonum ramosissimum) (S) Snow on the mountain (Euphorbia marginata) (W) Flowering spurge (Euphorbia corollata) (EB)
Prairie willow (Salix humilis) (E)
Spanish bayonet (Yucca angustifolia) (W)
Camas plant (Zygadenus elegans) (W)
Dropseed grass (Sporobolus cuspidatus) (W)
Wild rye (Elymus robustus) (W)
Larkspur (Delphinium azwreum) (W)
Western corydalis (Corydalis aurea var occidentalis) (W) Western wall flower (Erysimum asperum) (W)
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 57
Bird foot violet (Viola pedata) (W)
Flax (Linum suleatum) (W)
New. Jersey tea (Ceanothus ovatus) (W) Hosackia (Hosaskia Purshiana) (W)
Prairie clover (Petalostemum multiflorus) (WW) Needle grass (Stipa spartea) (W)
Lead plant (Amorpha canescens) (W)
Wind flower (Anemone cylindrica) (W & E) Purple sorrel (Oxalis violacea) (E)
Sumach (Rhus glabra) (EB)
Milk vetch (Astragalus carycocarpos) (W) Wild licorice (Glycyrrhiza lepidota) (W) Five finger (Potentilla arguta) (EK & W) Houstonia (Houstonia angustifolia) (E) Common sunflower (Helianthus annuus) (W) Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Morning glory (Convolvulus sepium), hairy form (W) Sheep sorrel (Rumex acetosella) (Cos) Spurge (Huphorbia dictyosperma)
Spurge (Huphorbia Geyeri) (W)
Blue grass (Poa pratensis) (Cos)
Tickle grass (Panicum capillare) (EK & W) Side oats (Bouteloua racemosa) (E & W) Switch grass (Panicum virgatum) (W) Dropseed grass (Sporobolus cryptandrous) (EH & W) Missouri golden rod (Solidago Missouriensis) Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Catchfly (Silena antirrhina)
Wild four o’clock (Oxybaphus angustifolius) Small fox glove (Gerardia aspera)
Prairie sunflower (Helianthus Mazimiliani) Aster (Aster multiflorus)
Sunflower (Helianthus rigidus)
Blue sage (Salvia lanceolata)
Narrow fox glove (Gerardia tenuiflora)
These are some of the common types over the entire loess mounds. The western blazing star (Liatris punctata) with its deep straight roots has enabled the plant to adapt itself to the droughty conditions which frequently prevail in the region. The Spanish bayonet (Yucca angusti- folia) common in sections of Nebraska, the Dakotas and Kansas is a rare plant in this region, although becoming more common northward in the vicinity of Sioux City. It is confined to the steep banks, well up near the summits of the mounds.
The mesophytic flora is gradually encroaching upon the xerophytic, and as important forerunners for the mesophytic vegetation several of the shrubs like Snowberry (Symphoricarpos) play a conspicuous part. Hast- ward in northeastern and central Iowa the hazelnut (Corylus Americana) is the chief factor in changing the character of the vegetation.
The amount of precipitation collected for a series of years indicates that this region is much drier than in the drainage east of the Mis- souri river basin.
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GEOLOGY OF MILLS COUNTY. By John A. Udden, Geologist.
The uplands consist of an old drift plain, modified by erosion and by the deposition on its surface of a blanket of loess. But little is left of the old surface of the flat drift plain. The only remnants left are some flat strips of land on the highest divides farthest away from the largest streams. These strips are usually less than one-fourth of a mile in width, often much less. The widest flats seen were between the head- waters of Mill creek and Rock creek in Locust Grove township in Fre- mont county; in the vicinity of the town of Tabor; on the divide be- tween Mud creek and Silver creek southeast of Silver City; on the divides north of Glenwood, north of Emerson and north and south of Hillsdale. The total area of these upland strips do not cover more than at most a few square miles of land in the two counties.
Excepting these flat areas the divides everywhere consist of ridges, more or less convex in cross sections. These are broadest farthest away from the principal drainage basins and as we approach the margins of the uplands they become more and more contracted and narrow. In the bluffs of the Missouri they are frequently only three or four feet across, with a steep slope on either side. The average elevation of these summits of the uplands for the two counties is about 1,170 feet above sea level, and it varies a hundred feet above and below this figure. ‘The eastern two-thirds of the uplands in this area fall about thirty or fifty feet below ‘the average, while the highest divides approaching the Mis- souri river bluffs rise above it in places as much as ninety feet. From north to south they have a general descent of about a foot and one- third to the mile.
By far the greater area of the uplands is formed of slopes which ex- tend on either side from the creeks and ravines up to the crest of the ridges and flats on the divides. Farthest away from the larger drainage lines these slopes have a gentle grade and even near some of the larger creeks they may be a half mile in length and 100 or 125 feet in height. But near the Missouri bottoms they become more steep and frequently rise at a high angle to 150 or even 200 feet above the bottoms. Along these bluffs they are sometimes too steep to be tilled. Elsewhere they constitute the main farm land in the region. The distance from the foot of the lowest to the top of the highest slopes embraces a vertical range of about 360 feet.
There is no doubt that small patches of Cretaceous deposits lie under the drift in several places on the uplands, where they cannot now be seen. Sand and soft “sand-rock” have been found under the boulder clay a mile east of Emerson. Another well in the west bluffs of the Nishnabotna west of Henderson penetrated some gravel which may have been of the same age. On the eroded surface of the limestone in the quarry at Henton there are seen some disintegrated lumps of a brown sandstone which resembles the Cretaceous in appearance. It contains almost exclusively well rounded pebbles of quartz and chert. Blocks of the same conglomerate, always highly ferruginous, occur associated with small exposures of Coal Measure rocks two miles farther south and have been again noted on top of these older rocks east of Wabonsie lake in
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 59
section 23, Scott township, Fremont county. The clay which fills the caverns in the limestone scuth of Malvern is probably also of the same age, and the same may be said of a highly disintegrated, ferruginous and soft clayey rock resting on the eroded surface of the Coal Measure lime- stone southeast of the center of section 13, Tp. 67 N., R. XLII W.
While the age of the small outcrops enumerated above must be re- garded as uncertain, the Dakota sandstone can be positively identified in two exposures in Mills county. One of these is in the low slope of the east bluffs of the Nishnabotna a little south of the center of the north- east quarter of section 22, two miles south of Henderson, and the other is half a mile distant, northeast of the southeast corner of section 14. Sandstone was quarried for many years at the former place, but the quarry is now partly filled. The face of the quarry appears to have been about ten feet high. The rock is a gray sandstone in heavy ledges, in places yellow or even brown. It breaks with equal readiness in all di- rections. Where the rock is hardest, the sand grains are held together by an opaque, white, thin layer of silecious cement which apparently is a product of interstitial leaching and redeposition. The solvent effect of underground waters are seen also in the absence of the ferruginous cementing material which is common in the Dakota sandstone else- where, and which makes the sandstone in section 14 almost black. In the quarry in section 22, the yellow or red oxides of iron color the rock in places where perculating water has not had free passage, as along shaly seams and in concretions. At the base of the quarries the sand- stone rests on gray clay, or is interbedded with this, and on the faces of some ledges there are marks which show how the two kinds of sediments, while yet in a plastic slate, have been worked into each other and broken into lumps which have slid into new positions, evidently under pressure of superincumbent sediments.
The sediments are of the littoral kind: mud, sand and gravel alterna- ting. It is the first deposit of the advancing sea. The gravel is well worn, and consists largely of the most resistant material of the under- lying Coal Measure rocks. No limestone fragments were seen, but in one block were some angular cavities which might have contained chips of such rock, afterward removed by solution. A study of several lots of pebbles of various sizes show that the larger ones are mostly made up of chert from the Coal Measures and this often contains silicified frag- ments of fossils. Most of the finer material is common quartz, and may be seen in the following table, which is based upon observations of sev- eral hundred pebbles and grains of the conglomerates and sandstones. Evidently the larger fragments are nearly all derived -ffrom the local - rocks, the more resistant material of the Missourian.
The geographical condition under which the Missourian deposits were laid down are to be made out from the physical character of the beds themselves as well as from the plant and animal remains which they contain. These indicate off-shore conditions, such as prevail on a con- tinental shelf, alternating with more shallow and less open waters. A considerable part of the shales contain fine, arenaceous material such as is common in the deposits out on a continental shelf. The limestones in-
60 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
dicate a still more open sea. The coal seams and the black clayey shales, on the other hand, were laid down in lagoons near the shore. Plant remains are rather scarce even in connection with the coal seams, which themselves have a small development. The presence of Fusulina of Ammodiscus, of other foraminifera and no less the abundance of echi- noderms and especially crinoid remains, testifies to the presence of deeper waters at intervals. Below is given a classified list of the fossils noted.—Geology of Mills and Fremont Counties, Iowa Geological Survey, pp. 127-8, pp. 162-3 and pp. 159-0.
REPORT ON LOWER DES MOINES AREA. By E. R. Harlan, Curator Historical Department.
I wish respectfully to advocate, for the southeastern portion of the state, the following:
The bed of the Des Moines River from its mouth to Raccoon Forks is the property of the United States Government or of the State of lowa.
The lands adjacent to the Des Moines River are held under govern- ment designations, the owners generally not claiming though often using, the lands between the meander lines and the water in the river. All such lands should eventually be reclaimed or acquired where possible by the state, the entire length of the river, from the Minnesota to the Mis- souri boundaries.
For much of the distance between the region of Belfast, in Lee County and Eldon in Wapello County, there are maintained good highways on one or both banks of the river and upon or near the meander lines; wherever the roads are far from the river, it is because of the rugged- ness of the country and banks.
The original forest growth of the bottoms and the hills along this sec- tion of the river has, in many places, been removed, but there is, throughout the greater part, a good variety and good specimens of all trees native to the region. Young growth, in many places, is replacing denuded parts, and replanting is practicable in all.
The acquisition by the state of the banks and adjacent grounds for study and recreation and their adaptation to that purpose, would be merely a matter of acquiring the slender strip of ground along or through which the river and the roads run, and then widening spaces which are not expensive but of highly interesting historic, scenic and scientific character. The least valuable in money of any lands in the re- gion are best suited to the eventual reproduction of such plant growth and rights of way as will make of them most valuable places for recrea- tion and study by the present and future generations.
Practically every prominent point of land abutting the river is topped by mounds of prehistoric origin, many of them as yet unvandalized. These are usually to be found where the natural ruggedness has, pre- vented the building of roads. They are in the best places for resting, camping and sight seeing, are ample in number and so vary in position
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 61
and accessibility that, with the guidance of maps or charts, the student of Iowa’s archaeological remains can be easily and inexpensively afforded the most valuable field work.
The rocks of the region present an interesting and valuable field for study and for scenic enjoyment, and are always within a few rods of the places for eventual road construction, and they are of the best quality for that use.
The water features are by nature limited to the stream itself and ad- jacent springs. By eventually damming the affluents of the river, arti- ficial reservoirs for industrial or for pleasure purposes are easily possible.
The scenic and scientific character of the area then, though above but barely touched, would be sufficient to warrant the acquisition of the necessary lands to make of this stretch of the Des Moines River a public park.
But neither the scenic nor scientific qualities of this area are its sole consideration. If those were not respectable qualities, the historic char- acter of that stretch of-the lower Des Moines would, if understood, de- mand that the grounds should be rendered more easily accessible, and that the vanishing information concerning it should be fixed in texts on tablets and maps. Relatively it is as interesting as the Hudson and more romantic than the lower James.
This stretch of the Des Moines River crosses that part of the state known as “The Black Hawk Purchase.” It is the strip of land ap- proximately forty miles wide west of the Mississippi River which was wrested from the Indians after the Black Hawk War in 1832, and to the west of which they were required to remain for the security of the Iili- nois people. The strip was retained by the Government as part com- pensation for its expenses in that war. It was the first of lowa lands opened for settlement. The part of the Black Hawk purchase in Lee County which would be cut off if the Missouri boundary ran across the Des Moines River and on to the Mississippi, is “‘The Half Breed Tract” where land titles remained in litigation until long after the Civil War. Hence settlers advanced up the Des Moines River to and above Farm- ington where they had no disturbance from faulty title, continuing on up the Des Moines River to a place below Eldon where the west line of ‘the . forty miles strip separated white and Indian, and Indian rights remained until they were extinguished on up to Ottumwa and west to the meridian of Knoxville.
The Des Moines River at that time was the principal prospect for transportation to and from that interior of what, even then was known would be the richest part of the proposed state. Awaiting the opening - of the new country, this stretch of the Des Moines River became the most thickly populated and most prosperous of any region of equal area in Iowa. More “cities and towns’ were “founded” here and are now gone than still remain. Upon the opening for settlement of the further western Iowa, the group of enterprising people which had rushed in be- tween Belfast and Eldon hurried on, and in effect “expanded,” leaving their name and character in the lower Des Moines valley, yet became fac- tors, often features, in almost every city and state west that had begin- nings between 1840 and 1858.
62 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
The lower Des Moines was like a pool of excellent stock which had trickled from the east on account of hard times in 1837 and other con- siderations, and from the south on account of slavery and poor prospects for better homes. This accumulation of good character in the lower Des Moines remained until the removal of the obstruction of Indian posses- sions, immediately to the west, in 1846. When that was released the population rushed as if by gravity to Ottumwa and west in Iowa. The region was scoured out by the emigration to California in the gold days of 1849 to 1856 and actually sprinkled the whole west with its repre: sentatives.
This is the key to the remarkable fact that more than seventy ‘men and women, once of national reputation have lived in this region, and for the characterization by the late George G. Wright as “The Keosauqua Group of Famous Men,” later corrected and expanded by the writer as the “Van Buren County Group of Famous Men.”
Among the facts and names worthy to be observed in the history of the river ascending from Croton to Eldon, are the following:
CROTON—Site of one of the dams and locks of the navigation era. A hostile cannon ball fell here, the only one on Iowa soil and the one that reached farthest north of any in the Rebellion. It was fired in the Battle of Athens, Missouri.
SALUBRIA—Site of the Free Thought Colony founded by Abner Knee- land, of Boston, 1838; his residence is still in good preservation, though erected in 1840. Mr. Kneeland was the last man imprisoned in America for blasphemy, he having been among the first to question the divinity of Jesus Christ from a Boston pulpit. He mortgaged his library in 1839 for two hundred dollars ($200.00), establishing the rank of his collection of books in this then sparsely settled region.
FARMINGTON—First County Seat of Van Buren County, point of as- sembling of Iowa Militia for battle against Missourians in the “Missouri Boundary War,’ 1836. John F. Dillon opened his office here as a phy- sician but decided to become a lawyer. Numerous excellent buildings ex- tant since 1840. Across the river is “Big Duck Marsh” and “Big Duck Creek.”
PLYMOUTH—An extinct town adjacent to Farmington, once-the site of a lock and dam for navigation and of a large flouring mill.
PALASTINE—South of the river; an extinct town extensively ex- ploited in early days as a prospective city. No vestige of it remains.
“M’CRARY RESIDENCE’’—South side. A conspicuous pre-war brick dwelling facing the river.
BONAPARTE—Site of a lock and dam in navigation system, and of the Meek Mills which supplied Iowa and the west with woolens and wool products from 1837 to 1870, and with saw-mill and grist-mill products much of that time. The dam was the subject of the famous “fish-way” case. Excellent old buildings. Charles E. Pickett was born here.
NAPOLEON—Extinct town across the river south of Bonaparte. BENTONSPORT—Site of dam and lock. Once exensive mills, includ-
ing paper mill which made the paper for the Gate City and other Iowa journals, 1856-1866. Once home of Captain Hancock and other early Iowa
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 63
legislators, and of Seth Richards and other noted merchants. Resi- dence in youth of U. S. Senator W. EH. Mason, U. S. Senator William A. Clark, Secretary of the Interior George W. McCrary, the author, Albert Bigelow Paine, Judge H. C. Caldwell and other notables. Excellent resi- dences of different eras; some constructed by expert Mormon builders in 1846 who later achieved fame for Salt Lake City through their construc- tion of the Tabernacle, its organ and of the Temple.
VERNON—Opposite Bentonsport; residence of Gideon S. Bailey who once chose the marshalship of the U. S. District Court rather than the Governorship of Iowa Territory.
LEXINGTON—Extinct town near the mouth of Rock Creek; a noted rallying point in earliest days for claim hunters and adventurers. The birthplace of Governor Ross of Texas.
ROCK CREEK—Flows into the Des Moines where the Des Moines re- turns from the Ox Bow to its general southeast course, forming a ridge from which was quarried stone first used in the present Capitol, but later condemned and removed.
COLUMBUS—Up the river from Rock Creek; a rival of Lexington and early home of Governor Stanard, of Missouri.
RAPIDS—In the river which Missouri claimed was the one intended in the Missouri constitution to describe its northern boundary.
DES MOINES CITY—Rival of Port Oro but combined therewith and renamed Keosauqua.
KEOSAUQUA—Famous from its foundation as a seat of progress and influence in Iowa and National affairs. Once the residence of more men of note than any other American town of its population. Barliest of ex- isting court houses of Iowa, in continuous use from 1842 to present time. Residences of extraordinary interest for historical association. First bridge across the Des Moines River was erected here and that now in use being older than any other. A dam, lock, steamboat landing and power mill were erected here.
PLEASANT HILL—Now South Keosauqua; prosperous in old ferry days. The hill affords one of the famous scenic surprises along the lower Des Moines.
PITTSBURG—Originally Rising Sun, a famous ferry-crossing in Cali- fornia travel days. Noted milling and distillery town.
CHEQUEST CREEK—A beautiful stream. The Chequest stone quar- ries were near here and it was on this Iowa stone in the Washington monument that Enoch Hastman’s words were carved—‘Iowa, her affec- tions like her rivers of her borders, flow to an inseparable UNION.”
OLD CHURCH TREE—Above Chequest Creek, the great elm where the first assemblage west of the Des Moines, in what is now Iowa, was held for the worship of Almighty God.
FOX ISLAND—Noted fishing and hunting.
LICK CREEK—A most picturesque stream puts in here.
KILBOURNE—Once Philadelphia, early trading town and site of In- dian camp. On opposite bank was a trading house of the American Fur Company. For a mile upstream and down stream, the bluffs are beau- tiful in every season of the year.
64 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
DOUDS-LEANDO—Hyphenated rival towns with the most interesting early history and traditions. Douds was formerly Alexandra, lies to the north; Leando formerly Portland, to the south.
SELMA—Took the trade from Iowaville, immediately above, when the railroad superseded the river and stage coach. Formerly Independent. Site of Saylor Cabin.
IOWAVILLE—Town upon site of famous Indian battle; stood against the west boundary of the Black Hawk Purchase. Extensive trade with the Indians. Only one of its houses remains.
BLACK -HAWK—Founded and promoted by Andrew J. Davis, later the Butte, Montana, millionaire, lies south of Iowaville; site of the Davis distillery and of his residence, the latter still standing. A steamboat was built here in 1848.
IOWA VILLE--DITCH—Constructed from Avery Spring to Des Moines River across the Indian battle field. Hundreds of Indian bones were thrown up when the ditch was dug.
AVERY SPRING—Is a limitless water supply from the hillside, for- merly beautifully environed.
THE INDIAN BONES—Have been noticed in the soil of the battle- field. Northeast of the place, on a rise toward the hills, are the burial grounds of the pioneer families of Jordans, Nelsons, Hinkles and their compeers. Also the grave of “Patriarch” Ashael, brother of Joseph Smith, founder of Mormonism. On the hill, almost immediately beyond the cemetery and crowning the hill are some half dozen conspicuous mounds of the earliest era of human life in this region.
THE JORDAN HOMESTEAD—Near the grave site of Black Hawk and the Stump House, half a mile north of Selma, are notable houses.
THE MOUND—Where the Indian racers encountered defeat. It is the last point of interest before reaching Eldon. South of the river between Eldon and Selma is of superbly wild beauty.
ELDON—At the upper end of Indian bottom and end of present pro- posed section of proposed park.
Returning to Selma and looking up the river, the whole field of battle between the Iowa tribe and the Sacs and Foxes which took place in 1822, is to be seen. It was the ancient home of the Iowa tribe. The Sacs and Foxes came from their ancient home on Rock River, Illinois, crept to the hill-tops bounding the Iowa prairie on the north, waited for the lowa men to go to the mound near Eldon, to race horses, then rushed between the latter and their camp of women and children. Black Hawk second in command, directed the assault on the camp of women and children, who, like the men, were nearly all exterminated. Black Hawk enjoyed good fortune until he was defeated by the U. S. soldiers in the Blackha~k War and at “Bad Axe” was thrown “forty miles west” of the Mississippi. He chose this site of his earlier triumph as his last home. Here he lived until 1838, died and was buried. His grave-site is in a cultivated field some distance from the river, but his body was stolen, the skeleton mounted by a phrenologist for exhibition purposes, but was later sur-
The novelty of this proposed park area, extending some fifty miles and the land features amounting to mere threads occasionally widened for
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sufficient reasons, will at first strike the attention of the inexperienced or thoughtless as of less interest than if the same area of water were in the form of a circular lake and the land were its fringed frame. On sec- ond ‘thought it will be seen that the very attenuated character of the park, with its parallel roadways already in use and well maintained, crossed every few miles by roads from remotest parts, affords a pe- culiarly ready and pleasant access to the longest drives by a larger num- ber of men, women, and children than would be true if the same features were differently disposed. Instead of a center, there is an axis of interest leading to many and widely scattered population groups.
THE LOWER DES MOINES AREA. By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
As a member of this Board, I made an investigation in Lee, Wapello, Davis and Van Buren Counties for a proposed state park. The writer on previous occasions visited Van Buren County and adjacent counties in pursuit of the study of the native forest trees. A detailed study of these was made more than a year ago, and with Professor McDonald, a paper was prepared on the forest trees of the region. It occurred to me every time I visited the region that the region between Eldon and Belfast would offer a splendid site for a state park, not only for its scenic beauty, but for the many scientific features of the region. The exposed rock are of a particular interest to the geologist, the effect of the Kansas drift and subsequent erosions into sharp valleys present a splendid illus- tration of the type of topography in the Kansas drift area of Iowa. The region contains a large number of interesting trees, a blending of the trees of the north and the south. The following trees are abundant in the region:
White, black, shingle, bur, red, chestnut, black Jack, pin and post oak. No single area in Iowa has as many species of oak. There are also some magnificent specimens of sycamore, basswood, American elms, slip- pery-elm, hackberry, hard and soft maple, honey locust, coffee tree, red- bud, haws, wild crab, choke cherry, black cherry, cottonwood, butternut. red mulberry, black walnut, two kinds of shell bark hickory, and on the lower reaches of the Des Moines, some pecan, four ashes, the green, red, white and square stemmed ash. I am safe in saying also that no other region in the state has so many interesting shrubs. I may mention the paw-paw, trumpet creeper, three sumacks, several dogwoods, etc. Many southern herbaceous plants come into Iowa along the Des Moines. The list is a long one and need not be enumerated. I am also safe in saying that the number of species found here is larger over a given area than in any other section of the state. The largest sycamores and hackberries, in the state, occur in this region of Iowa. I saw a hackberry at least three and one-half feet in diameter on the Des Moines below Farmington. I think it was the largest hackberry that I have ever seen. It is surely worth while to keep some of the trees that run in age from one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred and seventy- five years, trees that were good sized when Pike made his memorable trip up the Mississippi.
5
66 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
At the present time, for much of the way between Eldon and Belfast, there is a highway on both the left and the right bank of the Des Moines River, excepting at such points where it would be difficult to construct a highway. There is a body of land varying all the way from fifty to three hundred feet running to the highway. The state should have a right to this land. I presume the United States Government has kept its right to this property, except as it was given to certain individuals to improve the area for mill and dam sites. Now it would seem that the state should acquire title to this land, if need be, by Congressional action. The proposed highway from Keokuk to Des Moines is nearly a reality and the state parkway would add greatly to its value as a high- way. There would be added to this area also the width of the highway, making an additional sixty feet or more. The state would then own for park purposes, a considerable patch of land along the Des Moines. Ad- ditional land, 80 to 100 acres in extent, should be acquired by purchase at various points along the river, land which is not valuable for agri- cultural purposes but would be ideal for the state park, Mt. Zion, Douds- Leando, Kilbourne, Pittsburg, Keosauqua, Bentonsport, Bonaparte, Farm- ington, Croton, Hinsdale and Eldon. In addition, small wooded areas should also be purchased, a few acres in extent, near the outlets of small streams, situated between the cities. This would give opportunity for those using the highway to stop for recreation.
At Croton and other points there should be purchased parts of the deep canyon to preserve the native, rare plants. Below Croton, for instance, it would be well to purchase all of the crest of the hill as there are some historic Indian relics in this region. The whole area to be purchased, from Eldon to Belfast, would not exceed twelve hundred acres and would give southeastern Iowa a rare opportunity for recreation and park purposes, so far as the natural areas are concerned the scenic, scientific and historic features are unsurpassed in southeastern lowa. It would seem to me that this area has a rare historic interest. Much of the early Iowa history was made in this section of the state. Per- haps no other part of Iowa has produced so many great men of the nation and state as this small region. We have here a rare opportunity of preserving for the future generations, the growth of building opera- tions in the state, from the log cabins, of which a few still remain, to the Virginia spacious house and its fire-place to the architecture of the Civil War period and the growth since that time. A few of the old mills and stores might be added tto the list. It appears to me that some of these places might be obtained by the state and included in the state park. I feel sure that these buildings can be obtained at a very low figure and, in some cases would be given to the state.
Mr. Harlan has so forcefully expressed the value of this area from the historic standpoint, that his report should be made an important part of our recommendations to the Executive Council. I concur most heartily with his recommendations.
The Farmington area and lake investigated is on the west side of the Des Moines. In order to reach it one must cross the Des Moines river at Farmington, going down the Des Moines and crossing Indian Creek
PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA 67
and then going over a hill and for a quarter of a mile beyond. How- ever, I might, in this connection, say that another road leading from Farmington goes over a narrow hogback partly covered with timber where there has been considerable erosion. The hogback contains an abundance of white oak, shellbark hickory and on the slope some bass- wood, ash, ete.
The 100 acres to be included in this park area contain a lake of about 30 or 40 acres. It is a comparatively wide valley probably formed by an ancient stream now diverted, that emptied into the Des Moines a quarter of a mile below the dam on the lake. The depth of this water in the lake is nowhere much more than four feet and at the present time has only a few open places. The rest is filled with lotus or chinquapin, a most beautiful sight. Thousands of the flowers were in bloom, the large creamy white flowers making a wonderful sight. Probably nowhere in Iowa can one behold so large a field of this lotus. It is probably also one of the few places where it occurs along the Des Moines as far north, west of the Mississippi river. It occurs in the sloughs of the Mississippi as far north as Wisconsin and Minnesota. The species may have been planted here by the Indians who used the tubers for food. There were a few cattails and arrowhead. I noted the following plants on the border of the lake: Scirpus, Aster sp, Solidago sp. The adjacent land rises rather abruptly and is of the Memphis silt loam type of soil. There is also occasionally an outcrop of sandstone. The adjacent region is large- ly covered with a second growth of timber. The trees are mostly second growth, although a few of the original trees are still standing, especially the white oak. We note here also that the black walnut and honey locust grow on the upland. Species were noted of all the oaks native to lowa except two, namely, the pin oak (Quercus palustris) and barren oak (Q. ellipsoidalis), the red oak (Q. rubra), quercitron oak (Q. velutina), white oak (Q. alba), swamp white oak (Q. plantanoides), chestnut oak (Q. acuminata), bur oak (Q. macrocarpa), two hickories shell bark (Q. ovata) and pignut (G. cordiformis), black walnut (Juglans nigra), but- ternut (J. cinerea), white ash (Fraxinus americana), green ash (F. lan- ceolata) are common. In the bottom near the Des Moines the black maple (Acer nigrum), soft maple (A. saccharnium), box elder (A. ne- gundo), cottonwood (Populus deltoidea), hackberry (Celtis occidentalis), white or American elm (Ulmus americana), slippery elm (U. fulva), honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), black locust (Robinia Pseudo-Acacia) in- troduced, the sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), basswood (Tilia ameri- cana), the river birch (Betula nigra), on the Des Moines sand bar willow (Salix fluviatile and S. Nigra and S. amygdaloides), an abundance of red bud (Cercis canadensis), hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) and mulberry (Morus rubra), hophorn beam, choke cherry (Prunus virginiana), black cherry (P. serotina). Of the shrubs the following were noted: Buck bush (Symphoricarpus orbiculatus), dew berry (Rhuus nigrobaccus), some rose, probably (Rosa blanda), sweet briar rose (Rosa rubiginosa), grape (Vitis vulpina), dogwood (Cornus asperifolia), hazel brush (Corylus amer- icana). I did not note many herbaceous plants in bloom. Ruellia ciliosa, Monarda fistulosa, Potentilla canadensis, Anemone virginiana, Polygon-
68 PUBLIC PARKS OF IOWA
atum commutatum, Festuca nutans, Bromus purgans, Thalictrum purpur ascens, blue grass (Poa pratensis).
In a paper on the Keosauqua area for southeastern Iowa I touched on the more important scientific features of the region in general. In a former visit long before the matter of state park sites for this area was taken up I felt that some of this interesting region should be set aside for park purposes. The region is an interesting one. This part of Van Buren county, like the remainder, was covered with the Kansan drift.
W. H. Stevenson, P. E. Brown and G. E. Corson and W. H. Reid state that “It extends to a depth of 50 to 100 feet and is somewhat thicker in the southwestern than in the northeastern part of the county. It consists of two well marked divisions of boulder clays, a lower blue clay and an overlying yellow clay, both of which include more or less sand and gravel. There is no well defined boundary between these two clays, but they grade gradually into each other. The lower clay is dark blue, compact and hard and filled with pebbles and small boulders. It varies in thickness from a few feet up to 75 feet. The overlying clay is usually a buff to reddish-yellow in color and it frequently contains sandy areas. It contains more life than the underlying material. Usually the yellow clays vary from 25 to 50 feet in thickness.
“At some previous geological time, a layer of fine dust-like, ash-colored material, called loess, was deposited over the glacial drift. Much of this material has been washed away since its deposition, especially along the Des Moines river, and the remainder forms a thin covering over the upland areas. This loess covering is usually 2 or 3 feet and never more than 10 feet in depth.
“Along the rivers in the county there are terrace soils, or former bottom lands which have been raised above the overflow of the streams by the shrinkage in volume of water or by the deepening of the channel of the stream. There are also several bottom land soils, occurring ad- jacent to the streams and subject to overflow.
“The soil of the area under consideration is a terrace soil known as the Calhoun silt loam. On a part of the area there are outcrops of a liny sandstone on which ferns abound. Most of the area is embraced in the Calhoun silt loam.
“The surface soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches is composed of brown or grayish brown, compact, but fairly friable silt loam which when dry often appears almost white. In some areas the surface soil is some- what darker than the typical. Beneath the surface there is a layer 3 to 4 inches thick of whitish or grayish white mealy silt loam, which changes below into a gray clay loam mottled with brown. The material from 20 to 24 inches usually becomes a drab or bluish gray, plastic silty clay mottled with yellow and brown. Below 30 inches the color becomes lighter with mottlings of yellow and gray.
“In topography this soil is level or undulating to slightly sloping. _ The slope from the terrace to the bottoms is gradual, extending for as much as one-eighth of a mile in length and this slope is often cut by ravines. Small streams frequently cut up the larger areas. The elevation above
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the bottoms is usually 50 or 60 feet, but in the smaller areas the differ- ence is often only 20 or 30 feet. In most of the type the drainage is good, but on the flat areas it is apt ‘to be deficient.”
The usual trees common in the county were observed by the writer— sycamore, basswood, slippery elm and American elm, hard maple (Acer nigrum), bur oak, white, chestnut, quercitron, red, black and post oak, red bud, honey locust, coffee bean, black locust (naturalized), hop- horn beam (Ostyra virginiana), white ash, green ash, almond leaved willow, black willow, sand bur willow, cottonwood, river birch, hazel, prickly ash, dogwood (two kinds), hop tree, sumach, poison ivy, fragrant sumach (Rhus canadensis) and wild grape. There are also many interest- ing herbaceous plants, aster, golden rods, violets, lilies, crowfoot, etc. There is a splendid covering of second growth timber, but only a few of the primeval trees are left. It seems to me this land next to the Mississippi river has such a strong tendency to wash that it cannot be well suited for agricultural purposes and sooner or later must be covered with trees to hold the flood waters back.
The region will make a splendid game preserve and should be ac- auired. Inasmuch as the people of Keosauqua propose to give the state a quarter section, we should acquire the area in question, some 800 to 900 acres more so that the area may be rounded out. If we do not ac- quire it this year, I am in favor of acquiring the tract with virgin timber containing some large trees, red, bur and white oak. There are some 60 acres in this old timber tract.
GEOLOGY OF VAN BUREN COUNTY. By Charles H. Gordon, Geologist.
The present channel of the Des Moines river evidently dates from the glacial epoch. Where the river encounters the limestones of the Miss- issippian or Lower Carbiniferous series, the channel is comparatively narrow with more or less precipitous rock escarpments.
West of Kilbourne, the soft coal measure rocks descend, passing below the river level below the west line of the county. Here the valley is wider and the slopes more gentle. In the vicinity of Farmington, also, a similar condition prevails, though here in part attributable to depres- sions in the surface of the limestones. This valley therefore well illus- . trates the principal “that mature and old forms are more rapidly de- veloped on soft than on hard rocks.’ As a whole the valley shows the topographical characteristics of youth.
At the middle of the county, the river forms a loop not unlike an ox-bow in shape. Between the upper points of the loop, the surface is very nearly on a level with the general plain to the northeast, of which plain it forms a part (758 feet above sea level). Along the line of the rail- road this has been reduced slightly by the erosion of the branches. It is evident that the Des Moines river flowed over this point, but was de- flected southward somewhat at the very beginning. This course was probably determined by a slight depression below the general plain level,
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possibly due to irregularities in the rock surface or to glacial drainage. As erosion went on, its efforts were directed toward straightening its course by the corrosion of its left bank at the Kilbourne bend. The effect of this, however, was to cause still greater deflection southward which was increased when the hard limestones were encountered. As the loop gradually extended itself southward, the stream encountered similar resisting rock walls, but of somewhat softer constitution, so that corrosion took place here more rapidly than before. For a time the corrosion was fairly uniform, giving the loop a regular outline. After reaching the ninety-foot terrace.level, however, the soft Keosauqua sand- stone had been penetrated toward the east. By the descent of the strata to the southwest this sandstone remained about at the river level, so that while corrosion was taking place quite rapidly in the soft sand- stone toward the southwest the hard limestone eastward offered a much more effectual resistance, giving rise to the northward bend below Keo- sauqua, instead of a uniform curve which would result if the rocks were of uniform hardness.
Terraces.—The highest terrace is about 140 feet above low water at Keosauqua. From this point the terraces descend quite uniformly. The most marked are the following.:
145 feet 120 feet 90 feet 75 feet 50 feet 25, feet 15 feet and 10 feet
—History of the Des Moines, Vol. IV, p. 235.
The Des Moines River—The Des Moines river flows nearly due south- east, and with one exception varies little from a direct course. This exception occurs in the center of the county where the river is abruptly deflected from its course to the southwestward, but soon returns, forming a deep U-shaped loop whose axis is a right angle to the general course of the stream. The length of the loop thus formed is about five miles, while across the neck the distance is not more than two miles. To make this short distance the river takes a roundabout course: of fully twelve miles. The principal tributaries to the Des Moines are Indian, Bear, ~ Chequest and Holcomb creeks on the south, and Reed, Coates and Lick creeks on the north.
Indian Creek.—This creek bisects the Des Moines between the Des Moines and Fox rivers, flowing parallel with them from its source near the western.line of the county to Willett station where it turns eastward. Except in the last four miles of its course, where it invades the Saint Louis limestone, the stream flows over a thick bed of drift. In this por- tion the stream has comparatively wide bottoms with more or less abrupt but rounded slopes.
Bear Creek.—Bear creek has a comparatively steep declivity. It takes its rise on the plateau level south of Keosauqua and, soon penetrating to the rock, is bordered in the lower half of its course by more or less prominent mural escarpments. It opens into the Des Moines at a high angle just south of Bentonsport.
Chequest Creek.—Chequest creek rises in Davis county and flows approximately parallel to.the general course of the Des Moines, into
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which it empties at Pittsburg. Throughout the greater part of its course in Van Buren county, the stream flows over the limestone of the Saint Louis, in which it has cut a somewhat irregular channel with prominent rock escarpments.
Lick Creek.—Lick creek takes its rise in Jefferson county, flows south- easterward and enters the Des Moines at Kilbourne. Throughout most of its course the channel is confined to the drift and coal measure forma- tions, the latter of which, from lack of resisting materials, offers few exposures, and ‘tthe region is marked by rounded, hilly topography. Lick creek penetrates to the limestone, however, a short distance above Kil- bourne, and from this point its course is marked by abrupt deflections and prominent rock escarpments.
Coates Creek.—Somewhat similar in character to Lick is Coates or Honey creek. Taking its rise in the upland plateau in numerous widely branching secondaries and flowing southward, it discharges into the Des Moines. It soon penetrates the drift and coal measure deposits, and its course thereafter is marked by more or less prominent rock acclivities carved in the Saint Louis limestone.
Reed creek is almost the counterpart of Coates, except that in its lower course it is more sinuous from deflections due to the peculiarities of the underlying rock structure—Iowa Geological Survey, Vol. IV, p. 203, 204, 205.
FOREST TREES OF MUSCATINE COUNTY. By Ferdinand Reppert.
The timber area of Muscatine county is confined to the region along the Mississippi and Cedar rivers. Originally these forest belts were in the main unbroken and continuous along these watercourses, and from four to six miles or more wide. Much of this area has been cleared of its timber and converted into farm and pasture lands. The original larger forest trees have almost disappeared, so that what is now seen are mostly “second growth” trees. There is very little, if any, timber cut for export or manufacturing purposes. There are frequent groves on the prairie farms, planted to protect the houses and live stock from wintry blasts.. The soft maple is the principal tree planted for this pur- pose; small groves of black walnut and evergreen trees are occasionally seen. The forest trees which most largely contribute to the timber sup- _ply are the white oak, bur oak, shellbark hickory and mocker-nut hickory. A few other species contribute more or less to the wood supply, but the six species above mentioned largely predominate.—Geological Survey, Vol. IX, pp. 380-1.
GEOLOGY OF MUSCATINE COUNTY. By John A. Udden, Geologist.
The west bluff of Pine creek, all the way from Pine creek to near the junction of its two main branches near the center of section 17 in Mont- pelier township, consists of a high and frequently vertical escarpment
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of solid sandstone, from fifty to a hundred feet high. This sandstone rests on softer shaly beds, into which the creek has cut its valley. The - sandstone has been partly undermined by the stream, furthermore it is cut by vertical joints; and for these causes blocks of the rock break off and fall down, forming a talus below. Near the north end of the escarpment some large blocks of the whole formation of the sandstone have begun to creep out and down on the underlying shale and have left a deep fissure ten feet wide between the detached and face of the main ledge. This fissure is known as Devil’s Lane. A remnant of an- other block lies still farther out, having advanced farther down toward the creek. This must have been detached first from the parent ledge. A third block is just in the process of being detached and is ready to join the procession in the rear. On the surface of the ground above, there are three sunken pits in a row of the forming crevice. This is open below at the south end, and is known as the Niche. North of the lane there is a recess in the wall which has been called the Bake Oven. Some distance to the north of this, close up to the brink of the wall, another small recess in the sandstone has been formed. This received the name of the Wild Cat Den from the nimrods among the early settlers in that region. The beautiful scenery along this mural escarpment is enhanced by some native pines that rise in somber grandeur from the brink of the wall. During the warm season it attracts from the cities and from the surrounding country, many visitors, who find comfort in the cool shade of the bluff and enjoy refreshing drinks from, the Chaly- beate springs that issue from under the base of the sandstone. Some years ago a cast of the curving, tapering radical end of a calamites tree was found in one of the blocks of the talus below this cliff.
Northward from the river the Des Moines rapidly thins out. Near the east line of the county it is last seen in the south half of section 1, in Montpelier township. Along the east branch of Pine creek it disap- pears in the northern portions of sections 3 and 4. Near the center of the south line of the latter section there are about thirty feet of sand- stone, mostly disintegrated to an incoherent sand, with here and there some hard, thin, ferruginous layers——Geological Survey, Vol. IX, pp. 310-11.
REPORT ON WILD CAT DEN. By L. H. Pammel, Botanist.
The Wild Cat Den in Muscatine county is situated on Pine creek, some two and one-half miles from the U. S. Biological Station at Fairport, ten miles from Muscatine and fifteen miles from Davenport, also about seven miles from Pleasant Prairie Station on the Clinton, Davenport and Mus- catine Railroad. It is easily accessible to about 150,000 people. It is within half a mile of the New Era Community Center, which is main- tained in part by Miss Clara L. and Miss Emma C. Brandt.
Wild Cat Den or Wild Cat Glen is well known to the people of the region and its fame as a region containing rare and interesting plants
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is known far beyond the border of Iowa. Dr. H. C. Cowles of the Uni- versity of Chicago annually takes his classes in ecology to the region to study the ecology of the region. Dr. B. Shimek, Professor of Botany of the University of Iowa, also uses the region to study the plants. The region has much of historical interest connected with it. Montpelier is on the Mississippi not far from the mouth of Pine creek. The first store in the county was established in 1838 by a Mr. Nye, who landed at the mouth of Pine creek in 1834. He was the second settler in the county. His grave and the grave of some others of the pioneers are neglected. The grist mill is also an old landmark, and was built soon after the permanent settlement in that vicinity was established. It is in a good state of preser- vation and is still in use, the dam as well as the mill. It is a most pic- turesque place and good enough for any artist to paint as a rural scene.
Wild Cat Den occupies an area of about 200 acres, belonging to the two Brandt sisters, Mr. Otto Fitchner and Mr. Welsch. These people are to be highly commended for keeping the place in such fine condition. The wild plants have had an opportunity here to grow and the wild life has also been protected. In many of the scenic places I have visited in Iowa much destruction has occurred, over pasturing, cutting of timber, which has destroyed the beauty of the natural surroundings. However, in the case of Wild Cat Den in Muscatine county, the owners have pro- tected the area in such a way that the original conditions still exist. It is to be noted, however, that people have gone in during the past to re- move the young white pine. It is interesting to note that there are no medium aged white pine left. The original trees 120 to 150 years old and very young trees six to seven years only remain. The early settlers removed the trees six to ten years old to plant in their yards. The re- moval of young pines and other plants was so frequent that the Brandts do not allow anyone on the place, except by permit. There is evidence that young pine, if given a chance, will recover the ground. Many of the old oaks and other trees are still standing in the virgin condition.
AGE OF TREES.
Species of trees. Age. Diameter. AVS ey Ge rat nity cee laren ep etalon, steuwtaley ctece Glatwisee hapal\siscate 120 years 25 inches UVALDE CRIS, sp orriorars, cine vakerencd one, smote tardy snenvaeivars.siler svahereMayarecs OW as 29 sf LEGCO BH eae clare hr crerane eter cies ccrchoweh were ake toretel ELS Sisto ere eral ayhehe rs Db rt 25 ss AUSAM TILEY HES! 0 lit Biba eo bal S 2.6 Re OCR EeCRO Ten ics OAC ROR ERC nema ae ot 85 < 20 by Black oak (Ouereus Cllipsoidialispye «<0 sc sce eet: WAT) OS 20 +
Geology of the Region.—Muscatine county is generally a smooth plain _ except for the narrow valley which has dissected the plain. In the eastern part of the county the elevation reaches a maximum of 800 feet. The Cedar river flows across the western part of the county and has formed a broad valley. The Mississippi river flows along the eastern border and below the city of Muscatine forms a semi-circular valley, known as Muscatine Island. The streams, except those mentioned above, are short. Pine creek is of this type. This stream heads in Fulton and Wilton townships, flowing through Sweetland and Montpelier townships, emptying into the Mississippi between the towns of Montpelier and Fair- port. The area is located in Montpelier township near the New Era community center. The rock outcrops consist of carboniferous sand- stone and associated shale. The soil is known as Lindley silt loam. H.
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W. Hawker and W. H. Johnson in a U. S. Dept. of Agr. 1916 Report, “Soil Survey of Muscatine County, Iowa,” state:
“The main occurrence of the Lindley silt loam is on the bluff slopes extending from the upland to the alluvial bottoms, and back along the deeply eroded stream channels draining the uplands. By far the greater part of the total area mapped occurs in the eroded area east of Musca- tine. The type is forested, the growth being the same as that of the Memphis silt loam, with which this soil is associated.
“Forestry and pasture are the only uses to which the type can be de- voted. West of Muscatine some groves of walnut are found on the bluff slope; these are valuable chiefly for cabinet and furniture wood. The area of the type under cultivation is so small that no data on crop yields - could be obtained. Cultivated crops suffer from excessive drainage, drought, and the disastrous erosion to which the sharp slopes of the type are subject.”
Trees of the Region.—The following trees were observed: White pine (Pinus strobus) on the sandstone slopes, white oak (Quercus alba), red oak (Q. rubra), bur oak (Q. macrocarpa), barren oak or black oak (Q. ellipsoidalis), chestnut oak (Q. acuminata), swamp white oak (Q. plata- noides), white ash (Fraxinus americana), green ash (F. pennsylvanica var lanceolata) in low grounds, shagbark hickory (Carya ovata), mocker- nut or white heart hickory (Carya alba), pignut or bitternut (Carya cordiformis), black cherry (Prunus serotina), choke cherry (P. virgini- ana), ironwood (Ostrya virginiana), blue beech (Carpinus caroliniana), river or black birch (Betula nigra) in low grounds, sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), basswood (Tilia americana), wild crab (Pyrus Iowensis), American plum (Prunus americana), service berry (Amelanchier cana- densis), red haw (Crataegus mollis), C. Margaretta, C. punctata, box elder (Acer negundo), soft maple (A. saccharinum), black sugar maple (A. nigrum), sugar maple (A. saccharum), quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides), large toothed aspen (P. grandidentata), cottonwood (Popu- lus deltoides), black willow (Salix nigra), almond leaved willow (S. amygdaloides), cordate willow (Salix cordata), honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), coffee bean (Gymnocladus dioica), slippery elm (Ulmus fulva), white elm (U. americana), hackberry (Celtis occidentalis), red-_ bud (Cercis canadensis).
The shrubs observed by the writer in the region are as follows: Prick- ly ash (Xanthoxylum americanum), dogwood (Cornus asperifolia, C. cir- cinata, C. amomum, C. alternifolia), hazel (Ccerylus americana), prairie willow (Salix humilis), rose (Rosa blanda), lead plant (Amorpha canes- cens), wild indigo (Amorpha fruiticosa), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), sumach (Rhus glabra), black cap raspberry (Rubus occi- dentalis), red raspberry (R. idaeus var aculeatissimus), black berry (R. cuneifolius, R. villosus), honeysuckles (Lonicera glauca), bush honey- suckle (Dievilla trifida), black haw (Viburnum Lentago), haw (V. pu- bescens), huckleberry (Glylussacia baccata), wild grape (Vitis vulpina, V. labruscae), Virginia creeper (Psedera quinquefolia), gooseberry (Ribes gracile, R. cynosbati). '
Herbaceous Plants.—A few of the herbaceous plants noted by the writer are as follows: Anemone (Anemone nemorosa), wood sorrel
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(Oxalis violacea), Lousewort (Pedicularis canadensis), trillium (Trillium sessile, T. grandiflorum), false Solomon’s seal (Smilacina stellata, S. race- mosa), Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum commutatum), bellwort